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River Wall
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventure Kayak Trundle 
Bottom Side Down 
Evil 
Float Trip 
Flood Control 
Grilled Trout 
Human Rites 
Muddy Waters 
Old Man River 
Original Route 
Overflow 
Put In, The 
Right To Laugh 
Right to Life 
River Dance 
River Grill 
River Jam 
River Mild, The 
River Wild, The 
Slacker 
Splash 
Take Me to the River 
Up A Creek 
Viagra Falls 
White Water 

River Wall 


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Lat, Long: 39.7373, -105.3189 Map
Page Views: 19,326. Good page?   
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ramin Jamshidi on Jan 1, 2001

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: The River Wall.

L->R...


Description 

A unique climbing area perched above Clear Creek. The setting is beautiful and there is essentially no approach; you just have to put up with the quarry trucks roaring through the tunnel. Tricky slab routes on the lower part of the wall, and more varied, powerful climbs on the upper half. There are a number of truly enjoyable climbs here. Most climbs are accessed via a large ledge split in two by a giant boulder (see picture). This ledge caps the lower series of climbs and forms the base of the upper set. There are two means of accessing this central area: The Put In (5.7) heads up from road level just a few yards away from the start of the bridge railing. From these anchors, you can climb Overflow or traverse right along the ledge (5.2) past a few bolts to reach the left side of the main ledge. Walk along the wall down to the river, where you can climb Bottom Side Down (5.10d) straight up to the left side of the main ledge. The right side of the belay ledge can be accessed by squeezing behind the boulder (take your pack off first!). River Wall requires a 60m rope and some forethought in rope management. A note on leading the lower climbs: rap down on one rope and carry a second to lead out on. Each of the lower climbs has a 2-bolt belay station just above the water where the belayer will have to mind the rope as much as the climber. (Dry treated rope will do no good if it's floating down the river.) Alternatively, on your way down you can hang draws and clip in one end of your rap line. At the bottom, pulling the rap line down through the draws should keep your rope from flying down into the drink.

This crag is generally in the shade.


Getting There 

River Wall is right across the river from High Wire. Get on US 6 from Golden, going west. The wall is on the east side of the bridge immediately east of Tunnel 2 (4.9 miles from Tunnel 1). It's best to park on the north side of the highway, about 1/4 mile east Tunnel 2. From the cars, walk west toward the bridge & tunnel, but stay south-east of the bridge (that is, don't cross over the bridge as though going to High Wire). The wall is right there on the south-east corner of the bridge.


L->R: 

Well Left:

A. Evil, 13, 1p, bolts.

Lower Wall:

B1. The Put In, 8, 1p, 60', bolts.
B2. Original Route, 9 PG-13, 1p, 60', gear & old bolts.
C. Muddy Waters, 9+, 1p, 80', bolts.
D. Old Man River, 10, 1p, bolts, 85'.
E1. Up A Creek, 11, 1p, bolts.
E2. Float Trip, 12-, 1p, bolts.
F. Bottom Side Down, 10+, 1p, 85', bolts.
G. The River Mild, 10, 1p, 85', bolts.
GH. Grilled Trout, 10+, 1p, bolts, linkup.
H. Grilled Trout, 10+, 1p, 85', bolts.
I. Take Me To The River, 11-, 1p, 85', bolts.
J. Flood Control, 10, 1p, 85', bolts.
K. Kor Route, 1p, 85', gear.

L. Riffle, 2, traverse along ledge between lower & upper walls.

Upper Wall:

L. Overflow, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
M. The River Wild, 12+, 1p, 70' (*), bolts.
N. Viagra Falls, 12, 1p, 70' (*), bolts.
O. White Water, 12-, 1p, 70' (*), bolts.
P. Splash, 11, 1p, 70' (*), bolts.
Q. Adventure Kayak Trundle, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
R. Human Rites, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
S. River Dance, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
T. River Jam, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
V. Slacker, 12-, 1p, bolts.
W. Right to Life, 12-, 1p, bolts.

Nelsonator I, location?
Nelsonator II, location?
Nelsonator III, location?
Right To Laugh, 9+, 1p, bolts. Location?

(*) = a 60m rope is preferred for descent due to the overhanging nature of the route & the falling away of the terrain below the anchors.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for River Wall:
The Put In   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch   
Right To Laugh   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch   
Muddy Waters   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Old Man River   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Flood Control   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch   
The River Mild   5.10c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Grilled Trout   5.10d     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
River Grill   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch   
Bottom Side Down   5.10d     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Take Me to the River   5.11a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Overflow   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch   
River Jam   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Splash   5.11c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Adventure Kayak Trundle   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch   
White Water   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Viagra Falls   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch   
River Dance   5.12b/c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Slacker   5.12c/d     Sport, 1 pitch   
The River Wild   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Evil   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Browse More Classics in River Wall

Featured Route For River Wall
Nate Weitzel Cranking the roof on Adventure Kayak Trundle.

Adventure Kayak Trundle 5.12a  CO : Golden : ... : River Wall
Sweet climbing on a variety of holds, jugs, cracks, and slopers. Crank the 12a crux at third bolt, and climb through the 11 rest section. Finish the overhung 5.11c finale. Look for the good jug hold before clipping the anchors! Fantastic route!!! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of River Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Mark Rolofson leading the route listed as number 13 in the beta photo of the River Wall.  We don't know the name of the route yet, so I put it on the intro page.  Super steep and exposed, 5.11, juggy roof to a hand crack.  To whoever put this route in:  Thank you for all the hard work!  This may be the best pitch in the canyon, even though some of the blocks and flakes are a little scary.  After my first go, I taped my hands.  Mark thought the jams were good enough to do without the tape glove though.

BETA PHOTO: Mark Rolofson leading the route listed as number 1...

There were 2 climbers climbing number 10 in the beta photo on 8/12/06 (Why isn't there a key to the beta photo!).  If this is you and you'd like more pics, let me know.  I asked one of you where High Wire Crag was.

There were 2 climbers climbing number 10 in the be...

Climber on the River Wall.

Climber on the River Wall.

Don't park near the crag, this could happen, or at least you'll get ticketed.

BETA PHOTO: Don't park near the crag, this could happen, or at...


Comments on River Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Cavallaro
Jun 7, 2004

There has been a lot of new routes developed on the right side of this crag, but the pictures do not detail route locations. Can anyone provide any info on where each route is? Maybe a left to right description of the newer routes starting to the right of Adventure Kayak trundle? Slacker looks to be awesome!

By Mark MacClary
Oct 1, 2005

Does anyone know what the project to the right of River Dance goes at?