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River Wall II

Select Route:
Arresting Arete 
Big Big Monkey Man 
Big, Big Gunky Man 
Box, The 
Brother From Another Planet 
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths 
Escape from Alcatraz 
Introducing Meteor Dad 
Le Diamant E'ternal 
Livewire 
Neurosurgeon 
New Horizon 
Pocket Hercules 
Redneck Hero 

River Wall II 


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Lat, Long: 40.22901, -105.34538 Map Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 28, 2001
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The River Wall; photo: Bob Horan Collect...

Description 

This great little crag sits immediately below the Buttonrock Resevior spillway and is packed with stellar sport and trad routes. The climbs range from super technical 'slab' routes such as Introducing Meteor Dad (10+) and Le Diamant E'ternal (13-) to pumpy overhanging face climbs; Escape from Alcatraz (11), Red Neck Hero (12-) and Brother from Another Planet (13) to steep cracks with both jamming and edges like Pocket Hercules (11+), Neurosurgeon (12-) and Lost Horizon (14-). Many of the lines can be set up on toprope if desired - take care! An excellent place to spend the day cranking!


Getting There 

Drive about 3 miles down County Road 80 and park at the gate. Walk down the road a short distance passing a toilet on the right. Your first visit continue up the road as it crosses the river and get a perfect view of all the lines. To access the steep lines New Horizon through Pocket Hercules walk down to the river and cross on rocks just below the spillway to the left side of the cliff base. This access might be impassible during high river (May through July?). During very low water it is sometimes possible (sandals, barfoot and-or poles help) to access the pedestal at the base of Escape from Alcatraz. For all of the lines right of Pocket Hercules, starting with Red Neck Hero and Escape from Alcatraz approach via a steep path up a short sandy hill behind the toilet. This approach involves a short bouldery approach on large positive yet slick holds just above the water = warmup? It is also possible to (1) climb the hillside right of the road prior to the toilet or (2) climb the bolted yet anchorless Pooh Corner (5.8) to attain the top of river wall and rappel to the desired side of river wall.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',5],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for River Wall II:
Livewire   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Introducing Meteor Dad   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Escape from Alcatraz   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pocket Hercules   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Redneck Hero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Neurosurgeon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Big Big Monkey Man   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch   
New Horizon   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Brother From Another Planet   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Le Diamant E'ternal   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in River Wall II

Featured Route For River Wall II
Through the crux.

Redneck Hero 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  CO : Lyons : ... : River Wall II
Classic pumpy sport route climbs directly out of the drink. Reach the Escape from Alcatraz pedastal via rock hopping across river, or access the right side of wall and boulder again left. Climbing directly left from the pedestal, clip traversing bolt with runner or double runner (or unclip later). Now, climb the past the corner and up into the thuggish face. The crux comes near the top after the pump is well settled into the forearms. Great moves, rock and fun!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on River Wall II Add Comment
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By Bryan Hylenski
From: Gyeongsan, South Korea
Jul 31, 2003

River wall has a classic 5-10d sport route, "Introducing Meteor Dad." If you live in Lyons or are travelling thru, the riverwall is a must stop. The climbs are never crowded, the rock is solid and very well protected. Most people in Boulder feel there too good for Lyons climbing. But River Wall and a few other areas have some classic climbs. If you are going to climb in this area, get Peter Hubbell's Falcon Guide book "Classic Rock Climbs No. 23 -- Lyons Area Colorado." Other great areas in Lyons that are completely isolated, right off the road and great climbing:Mushroom Massif, Piz Badille and Monkey Skull.

By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Mar 30, 2010

Much of the fixed hardware at this cliff has been replaced with new powers bolts. Thanks to whoever put forth the effort and funds to do this. 'Redneck Hero' has new bolts, and anchors on several walls are new.