An inexperienced climber about to fall off of the ...
Description
The cliff band upstream on the Truckee from the vastly more popular River Rock [See River Rock description for directions from the Hwy]. Despite the relatively short distance for approach, the game trails and scrambling involved will definitely up the adventure quotient while decreasing the crowd factor.
Cracks, face climbing, leads, and toprope options exist.
Getting There
Approach either from the dirt road and then up and over the cliff bands from the River Rock side, or cross at the end of the bridge (heading towards River Rock), follow faint game trails and bushwhack, generally trending above cliffs while not venturing too high.
A gully on the west side of the crag provides access to climbs on that side (i.e. Fuck Me), and includes 4th, low 5th class downclimbing and a bit of routefinding. Conversely, approaching from below the first upstream cliff from down a steep slope and then accessing a short four rung via ferrata will gain the same spot.
Alternatively, a set of waders or just wading and crossing the river (using best judgement) would be the shortest approach, although you'll have to choose your landing spot.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for River Rock - Upstream Crag:
A bouldery start leads to a hand crack and then a roof. The roof boasts good hand jams with sparse feet as well as a sloping jug to the left. The OW pod exiting the roof provides a further challenge but deep hand jams are there for those who reach. Otherwise, it's probably Fuck Me city, although some lieback beta might work at the lip....Hero jamming through wide hands in an overhung crack begins after the rest ledge just over the roof. Exit via some jugs to the back set anchors, but watch out f...[more]Browse More Classics in NV
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