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Ritz Cracker Area
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Ritz Cracker 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,508
Submitted By: Sam Stephens on Jan 26, 2010

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Short second pitch of Ritz.


One of the coolest easy splitter cracks in the NRG. Looks like someone just grabbed the rock and pulled it apart. Starts in a hand/fat hand crack and goes up a slabby to vertical face with the crack narrowing to fingers at the top. Build an anchor on the ledge with horizontals above the big Hueco, bring up your second and cruise the short but beautiful dihedral to the top. Rap from slings


About 100 yards past Springboard and Triple Treat climbers right.


Single #3-.5 for the first part and some nuts and maybe a small cam for the second part. Don't forget gear to build an anchor!

Photos of Ritz Cracker Slideshow Add Photo
My brother coming up third on Ritz
My brother coming up third on Ritz
The beautiful Ritz Cracker
BETA PHOTO: The beautiful Ritz Cracker
From the P2 belay.  This route can be done as one ...
From the P2 belay. This route can be done as one ...

Comments on Ritz Cracker Add Comment
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By Felix Duvallet
Mar 27, 2012

This climb can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope if you are careful about rope drag.
By BrianWS
May 1, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The so-called 'first pitch' is probably 5.8. The thin crack ramping up out right is the business.

Also, there is a 2 bolt anchor at the top of p2. P1 has a nest of slings around a lone tree -- do the poor thing favor and continue up to the bolted anchor on this route or Goofer's Retreat, to the left.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Jun 24, 2013

The only time this tree should be used is if you HAVE to rap off. On the wall to the right of the tree, about 7 feet off the ledge is a bomber horizontal crack that takes small gear. I built an anchor with 3 solid pieces here to do the second short dihedral pitch. Do yourself a favor and do the second pitch. It's a minimal amount of effort with 20ft of work for a fantastic and exposed payoff at the top on great jugs. Highly recommend.
By Felix Duvallet
Oct 22, 2013

There is now a bomber 2-bolt anchor at the top of this climb.
By b.t.miller
From: Charlotte, NC
Jun 11, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Terrific climb. Initial crack system protects very well with two #3's (blue) and #2 (yellow) BD cams.

Initial crack system and the crux dihedral crack can easily be combined into one pitch. Rope drag is easily mitigated by using a 4' sling at the top of initial crack system and a 4' sling at the start of the crux dihedral -- there is a perfect horizontal seam at the start of the dihedral that takes a 0.75 BD cam.

Dihedral (crux) is exceptionally well protected and can be sewn up if you want with 0.5 at start, 0.4 mid-way and 0.3 in the middle of the crux.

Climb up to the roof and then move right and onto exposed jug-tacular face. Bolts are just past these exposed final moves.