Start left of Digital on a low angled ramp. After Clipping the first bolt move right across a large flake onto a slab. Traverse across the slab until you reach a big jug. A couple bolts of 10b climbing lead to a ledge at the Angular Motion anchors. This is an optional belay, but it is best to skip it.
After you reach the ledge climb back left along a horizontal crack system with big holds. Make some technical moves into the Dihedral. Pull out the top of the dihedral, and traverse right along a slab. Some big holds lead to a massive lie back flake. Make some juggy moves, and you are at the second anchor. Almost everyone nowadays lowers at these anchors, as the third pitch hasn't been climbed in a long time, and is really dirty.
Bolts on the first two pitches. Chain anchors.
|By Colin Parker|
From: Idyllwild, CA
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Considering how heinously filthy (and short) the third pitch is, it might be best to list this as a two pitch 5.10c and mention the optional third pitch. It would probably serve the site users a bit more who are looking for a more moderate climb.
|By another Chad|
Aug 5, 2013
That's exactly what Tim did in the latest edition of Portland Rock Climbs. Has anyone climbed the third pitch since the FA?