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Red Arch Mountain
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Bits and Pieces T 
Red Awaking 
Rites of Passage T 
Shune's Buttress T 
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Rites of Passage 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 9 pitches, 800', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dave Jones & Geoff Scherer, 1994
Page Views: 1,713
Submitted By: bsmoot on Mar 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: East face of Red Arch Mt.
Route #1 is Rites ...

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Description 

This is another recommended route on Red Arch Mountain. A more adventurous alternative to Shunes. A lower corner crack is connected via face climbing to the prominent upper crack left of Shune's.

P1-3...Follow corner via fist & offwidths to a ledge (5.10+).
P4...Move left out on the face past 2 bolts to easier climbing and a ledge (5.11+).
P5...Wandering face climbing leads to a bolted belay on the face, to the right of a dirty corner system (5.11, some moss & dirt).
P6-9...Move right to single face crack which is followed via easier/classic climbing to the top (mostly hand cracks).

See Topo at visitors center


Location 

Begin about 100' left of Shune's Buttress in a long, striking right facing corner.

Protection 

Standard Zion free rack with extra #3 & 4 camalots.


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By zachlee
Sep 13, 2010

I say one of Daves best kept secrets. Way clean except for the mossy pitch super good rock and totally classic climbing. Hardly any small gear needed.4 bd camalots for the first pitch plus a wc 5 and wc 6 plus a 6 to back up the single bolt belay on the first pitch.we thought the crux ow was right off the belay on the second pitch protects with a 6. I thoroughly enjoyed the route thanks Dave.
By roxclamantis
Oct 15, 2010

Good going Zach.

Actually, I've talked this climb up, quietly, since I put it up. It is quite outstanding. Over the years I've learned that very few people are willing to climb routes they haven't seen in a magazine, so I've largely given up on pushing routes. I'd say the position of the upper pitches of Rites of Passage are as dramatic as those on Shunes. The lead-off across the chicken-head face up high has quite the pucker factor even though it isn't that hard. Geoff took a whipper 30 foot leader fall on the FA and I, whimpering, had to take over. An attention grabber.

The mossy pitch can be easily cleaned up if someone is willing to take up a plastic floor scrubber -- the rock under the moss is hard as nails.
By Shiho
Dec 3, 2012

For the approach-you can't get to the base of the climb from the base of Shune's. You kind of have to stay low.

The pitch 5 was covered with moss and very sandy. We linked pitch 5 & 6, climbed pitch 7 to the top of OW on pitch 8, and then climbed to the top. I enjoyed the route expect the vegetated pitch, which scared the crap out of me!