|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Kevin Johnson on Dec 12, 2010|
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May 16, 2015
Rite of Spring is an example of one of the finest traprock climbs in the State and is recommeded for any local or visiting climber.
Like many climbs in CT, a seemingly stout-for-the-grade on-sight ascent would be a proud and somewhat serious endeavor. However, with some reconnaissance, this CT classic is more approachable than it may seem; rewarding precise movement, attention to detail, and careful selection of footholds, combined with excellent gear.
A "standard CT top rope" can be set up from 2 large trees with around 75’ of static rope or webbing behind the large top-out platform. Get the master-point to hang in the corner below the 4’ tall evergreen where the climb tops-out. You can use a blue tricam, or similar, in a crack skier’s left of this tree to keep the anchor from sliding skier’s right if you feel the need.
To access this area from the base of the climb, head climbers left for a few hundred feet, then up a somewhat loose open gully that trends right. The top-out platform is where this gully levels off, before getting all the way up to the blue trail.
FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR AN "ON-SIGHT", DO NOT CONTINUE READING.
This description is, of course, only one account of the route, and your milage may vary significantly.
As noted in the main description, the moves off the deck to first ledge about 25’ up make for the sustained crux section for most climbers. Gear placement through this section may feel strenuous.
For very tall climbers, place a small offset nut deep in the crack right from the ground. For the rest of us, use a positive, but somewhat painful left hand finger jam and right foot back-step to get off the ground and make the first placement.
This is followed by a less secure finger lock and thin jam; take your time to find intricacies in the rock here. With a foot match, get into position to place a bomber, finger-sized cam just above the hand jam. Keep your eyes on the face just to the right of the crack for some key holds, and listen to your belayer when they call out a dish-shaped foot hold on the left.
Move up the crack with careful balance and lay-backing, or straight-in thin hands. Either way, there will be positive foot holds in just the right places to keep the climbing secure. The next cam is another perfect finger-sized piece where the crack pinches down.
Set up with high feet to get a high right gaston, grab the jug, then fire for the lip of the first ledge. Figure out the no-hands perch on the ledge before standing up if you think you need a full rest. If not, continue up the featured middle section of the route requiring interesting balance, but much less power. Place some solid passive pro along the way.
Get rid of any lingering pump before the angle kicks begins to back. Once its “on” again, a few positive sections on the jutting out, left facing portion of the crack allow you to lean right and use some great face holds for both hands and feet. From a good stance, you can place an excellent big-fingers-sized cam.
Where the crack widens, reach up and get a relatively secure, thin, left-hand jam. You can place a good thin-hands cam just above this to protect the last of the difficult moves; surmounting the ledge before the top-out corner. Find the most positive section of the lip and make a big reach for it, or use a sharp finger lock where the crack meets the ledge. Walk your feet up the crack, keeping an eye out for thin edges on the face that may be in a better location for your specific body position. As you pull onto the ledge, take your time to find the positive crimps and finger locks that appear on its floor like magic.
Stand up on the large ledge and hold back the celebration until after you pull a few easy moves up the final corner, protected by small TCU’s or stoppers.
Climb safe and enjoy this stellar route!
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