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Rite of Passage 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 280', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: KC Baum and Mel Thorson
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on Aug 15, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Rite of Passage.

Description 

The full name of this route is "Rite of Passage: A Tribute to Mugs Stump." It is considered one of the hardest ticks in the Canyon. KC dedicated the route to his friend, the visionary climber Mugs Stump, who had recently died near the time of the FA.

This is a 4 star route that has probably not seen 10 ascents in 15 years. It has fallen into disrepair. There are large bushes growing in the middle of the route and much of the crack is muddy. With regular ascents, this route would be a Unaweep classic. Even as it stands now, it is worth doing.

Baum breaks the route into 3 pitches, but it could be done in two long pitches. Climb fingers and face until the crack opens more, eventually ledging out 120 feet up (optional first belay). Continue with good, steep hands and finger to another stance (60 feet). Here is where the bushes get gnarly. Climb steep hands, passing an OW with a rest. Now the crux: flared tips for 6 feet- very sequential! Once through the business, enjoy steep jamming of various sizes until you reach the most desperate mantle I've ever done. Good luck. It's a brilliant end to a memorable climb - pure Unaweep!

Location 

It is approximately 200 feet west of the quarry. If approaching from the top, locate a tree with a rap anchor on the cliff edge roughly 30 feet west of the quarry. A double rope rappel get you to the ground. Walk west past a very large chimney/corner. Look for an obvious left-leaning crack about 50 feet right of the corner (look at photo).

Protection 

A standard rack to 4". The crux is protected by very small gear. A wire brush and pair of pruners is not a bad idea....


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By rob pizem
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Classic line, a couple of bushes need trimming, other than that, awesome! Hard to call it 5.12 though.