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Risky Business 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Meyers, Mike Tupper 1985
Page Views: 4,659
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Oct 4, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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When you commit, there's no going back. Scary pit...

Description 

Risky Business climbs some of the best rock in Red Rock. It is an EXTREMELY good climb and shouldn't be missed by anyone leading at the grade. However it is a bit runout so make sure you're very solid at the grade.

The route starts approximately 50ft to the left of Dark Shadows on a small "island" in the creek.

Pitch 1- start up a short left facing flake, then climb the face above aiming for the first of 2 bolts. After clipping the 2nd bolt climb up and slightly right to gain a shallow right facing corner. Climb this corner until it's possible to traverse left to reach the obvious ledge and anchor(5.10-, R-).

Pitch 2- climb the obvious corner up and slightly left of the belay; there is a bolt near the bottom of the corner. At the top of the corner follow thin, discontinous cracks aiming for another bolt. Face climb past this bolt, until you find more discontiuous cracks, follow these to the anchor, which is directly below a large bulge(5.10, R-).

Pitch 3- climb straight left, then up to reach a bolt. After clipping the bolt climb straight up until it is possible to traverse right to gain a thin crack system (the traverse is about 20ft). Climb up the thin cracks until it is possible to traverse back left towards a fixed pin in the bottom of a shallow right facing corner. Climb the corner to reach a hanging belay(5.10+, R).

Pitch 4- Climb straight up, off the belay past 4 bolts. After clipping the 4th bolt traverse right to a white ledge/large stance and the final anchor.

To descend rappel with 2 ropes.

Protection 

Rack: 1 set of nuts extras in the small size's, 1 set of cams Green alien to #1 camalot.


Photos of Risky Business Slideshow Add Photo
Collin somewhere on pitch two.
Collin somewhere on pitch two.
climbers on last pitch of Risky Business.  Other climbers are at top of P4 of Dark Shadows.
climbers on last pitch of Risky Business. Other c...
Collin after traversing out and clipping the bolt on pitch 3.
Collin after traversing out and clipping the bolt ...
Climber following the 1st pitch.
Climber following the 1st pitch.
Andy and Allison following the super cool third pitch. The position is amazing and the rock great. November 2012.
Andy and Allison following the super cool third pi...
Third pitch of Risky Business.
Third pitch of Risky Business.
starting Pitch 3 of Risky Business
starting Pitch 3 of Risky Business
An abundance of pro at the end.  Quite unlike the start.
An abundance of pro at the end. Quite unlike the ...

Comments on Risky Business Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 17, 2013
By Drederek
Nov 29, 2004
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

We did first two pitches in may '04. Started on a 3-4 foot block about 60 feet left of Dark Shadows. P1 is committing, P2 protected well. Ran out of daylight :(
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 7, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Couple of addition's.In the diescription for pitch 2 it should read- at the top of the CORNER follow the... On pitch 3 instead of doing the traverse back left to the fixed pin it is possible to climb straight up to the anchor on Excellent adventure. If you do this you'll have to do a leftward traverse to get back on the route following the belay. Both varitation's are the same difficulty but you can avoid some rope drag by using the EV anchor.On the descent, 1 60M rope will not work. Pitch 3 is the problem. pitch;s 1 and2 can be rapped with a single 60. When rappelling with 2 ropes- from the pitch 2 anchor you can reach the ground and keep your ropes dry. You'll want to head left of the start aiming for a white block. You will pass the anchor for the route short circuit.

This is probably my favorite route in RR!!
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 7, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

One more thing!!! All anchors and protection bolts are good as of 5-5-2005. Thanks too Greg Barnes and the ASCA.
By blackflyrancher
May 16, 2005

This is a spectacular route - not too scary and every pitch is well worth the time. Bring a knife and a couple of quick links or a some webbing for the last belay if you get on it. As of 5/15/05 the last belay had a wonderful new bolt/ring and an old bolt with some rather uninspiring moldy cord tied through a rap ring.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 16, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

OOPS!! I meant to mention that last anchor.We didn't have any quick links when we were replacing it. Someone please take a couple up there..this is the final touch needed to make every anchor perfect!!Thanks for the reminder blackfly!! Glad you had as much fun as I did on this awesome route!!
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 16, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

So I was looking at this again the other day and I saw the consensus rating had the route down to 5.10b/c. Then I looked closer and realised that this was because the person who grade it 5.10b hadn't climbed the crux pitch! Folks that third pitch is BOTH 5.10c AND R rated. But it's classic!
By Aaron S
Oct 15, 2007

Every pitch is classic on this one!

And if you are as lazy as I am and hate carrying a second rope, the route can easily be rapped with a single 70m.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

amazing route- found a bail loop on the first bolt of the crux pitch- and what a pitch! wow!

definitely rap with a 70m, easier than using 2 lines.

while all the pitches have run-outs on them, the third is the most heady and committing- but well worth it!
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Nov 3, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

One of the best routes I have done in Red Rocks. Pretty spicy but not too bad if you are confident on 5.10.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Stunning. Pitch 3 is the money pitch right off the bolt.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Apr 3, 2010

excellent adventure. however, in my experience at RR, most of the pro on the first pitch would not hold a fall. I thought there was ground fall potential above the second bolt. The huge flake at the start of the second pitch is hollow. A cam placed under it would pull it off in a fall, creaming your partner.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Dec 15, 2010

Great heads-up climbing. Deserves the R rating for sure. I was surprised that the Handren guidebook does not offer a seriousness grade for this route (or Excellent Adventure).
By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 19, 2011

Great route. One of my favorites in Pine Creek....not to be missed by a confident 5.10 leader and hardly ever a wait during peak times....
By blakeherrington
Mar 31, 2011

1/3 of the way up p2 there's a large squared-off jug that is loose and gonna rip on someone. Just above this, the thin L-facing flake is flexy enough that any gear behind it can be cleaned by just expanding the flake with a nut tool and watching the hardware fall out.
By Pitty
From: Marbach
Apr 27, 2011

went left in pitch No.3 after the first bolt and was lost in the middle of nowhere.... My fault....
2nd pitch is extremely nice but not too good protection, I would call it some kind of Runout....
By Rob DeZonia
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

One of my top three favorite routes in Red Rocks! A must do!
By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Oct 18, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Such great climbing and rad corner features. There are definitely some scary (or, spare me, risky) sections though. That square block that Blake Herrington mentioned is the real deal, and what stands out in my mind as the crux of the route was moving past this thing. Although any of the other holds are just as likely to break I suppose. The only runout part that Handren specifically mentions (P3 5.8 traverse) is a cake walk compared to everything else. And by that time, you'll be so used to it all. Especially so if you lead the whole thing, which I recommend if you can swing it. The climbing is great and is mostly all on positive holds.

I didn't have any RPs or equivalent and I don't think they would have helped too much anyway.
By BrianWS
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

The route descriptions in both the Stiles and Handren Guide seemed way off. All pitches are slightly to fully runout, with the exception of the second.
P1 is quite runout on solid 5.9/5.10 slab. P2 felt to be the hardest pitch, although well protected. P3 seemed neither sustained nor committing. P4 was super fun, with good spacing between bolts on super positive holds.