Risky Business 

We did first two pitches in may '04. Started on a 3-4 foot block about 60 feet left of Dark Shadows. P1 is committing, P2 protected well. Ran out of daylight :(

Couple of addition's.In the diescription for pitch 2 it should read- at the top of the CORNER follow the... On pitch 3 instead of doing the traverse back left to the fixed pin it is possible to climb straight up to the anchor on Excellent adventure. If you do this you'll have to do a leftward traverse to get back on the route following the belay. Both varitation's are the same difficulty but you can avoid some rope drag by using the EV anchor.On the descent, 1 60M rope will not work. Pitch 3 is the problem. pitch;s 1 and2 can be rapped with a single 60. When rappelling with 2 ropes- from the pitch 2 anchor you can reach the ground and keep your ropes dry. You'll want to head left of the start aiming for a white block. You will pass the anchor for the route short circuit.

This is probably my favorite route in RR!!

One more thing!!! All anchors and protection bolts are good as of 5-5-2005. Thanks too Greg Barnes and the ASCA.

This is a spectacular route - not too scary and every pitch is well worth the time. Bring a knife and a couple of quick links or a some webbing for the last belay if you get on it. As of 5/15/05 the last belay had a wonderful new bolt/ring and an old bolt with some rather uninspiring moldy cord tied through a rap ring.

OOPS!! I meant to mention that last anchor.We didn't have any quick links when we were replacing it. Someone please take a couple up there..this is the final touch needed to make every anchor perfect!!Thanks for the reminder blackfly!! Glad you had as much fun as I did on this awesome route!!

So I was looking at this again the other day and I saw the consensus rating had the route down to 5.10b/c. Then I looked closer and realised that this was because the person who grade it 5.10b hadn't climbed the crux pitch! Folks that third pitch is BOTH 5.10c AND R rated. But it's classic!

Every pitch is classic on this one!

And if you are as lazy as I am and hate carrying a second rope, the route can easily be rapped with a single 70m.

amazing route- found a bail loop on the first bolt of the crux pitch- and what a pitch! wow!

definitely rap with a 70m, easier than using 2 lines.

while all the pitches have run-outs on them, the third is the most heady and committing- but well worth it!

One of the best routes I have done in Red Rocks. Pretty spicy but not too bad if you are confident on 5.10.

Stunning. Pitch 3 is the money pitch right off the bolt.

excellent adventure. however, in my experience at RR, most of the pro on the first pitch would not hold a fall. I thought there was ground fall potential above the second bolt. The huge flake at the start of the second pitch is hollow. A cam placed under it would pull it off in a fall, creaming your partner.

Great heads-up climbing. Deserves the R rating for sure. I was surprised that the Handren guidebook does not offer a seriousness grade for this route (or Excellent Adventure).

Great route. One of my favorites in Pine Creek....not to be missed by a confident 5.10 leader and hardly ever a wait during peak times....

1/3 of the way up p2 there's a large squared-off jug that is loose and gonna rip on someone. Just above this, the thin L-facing flake is flexy enough that any gear behind it can be cleaned by just expanding the flake with a nut tool and watching the hardware fall out.

went left in pitch No.3 after the first bolt and was lost in the middle of nowhere.... My fault....
2nd pitch is extremely nice but not too good protection, I would call it some kind of Runout....

One of my top three favorite routes in Red Rocks! A must do!

Such great climbing and rad corner features. There are definitely some scary (or, spare me, risky) sections though. That square block that Blake Herrington mentioned is the real deal, and what stands out in my mind as the crux of the route was moving past this thing. Although any of the other holds are just as likely to break I suppose. The only runout part that Handren mentions (P3 5.8 traverse) is a cake walk compared to everything else. And by that time, you'll be so used to it all. Especially so if you lead the whole thing, which I recommend if you can swing it. The climbing is great and is mostly all on positive holds.

The route descriptions in both the Stiles and Handren Guide seemed way off. All pitches are slightly to fully runout, with the exception of the second.
P1 is quite runout on solid 5.9/5.10 slab. P2 felt to be the hardest pitch, although well protected. P3 seemed neither sustained nor committing. P4 was super fun, with good spacing between bolts on super positive holds.