Risk of Injection
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The first bolt is set high and protects a burly crux boulder problem. After somebody removed the hanger from it in the early 90s, the route didn't get climbed much. The hanger was replaced by Alan Nelson in 2001. The climb is ridiculously short, but packs a wallop. It merits an "S" protection rating, because the first bolt is the only thing between you and the ground, while the second bolt is difficult to clip. Without a cool head and an alert belayer, there is potential for a slab-slapping spit off the bulge. I recommend stick-clipping or aiding to get the rope into both bolts before pink-pointing from the ground, although it has seen an onsight redpoint flash ascent.
2 bolts, 2 bolts with chains anchor.
By Jason Haas
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No "R" rating. The first clip is easily reached by clipping low from a huge, flat, two-handed jug. The second bolt is easy to clip from a left handed sloper jug and huge feet. The bolts/anchor could stand to be updated as well. I will try to do that soon.