Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
Shit Howdy
Select Route:
Powerfully Stupid S 
Risk Brothers Roof T 
Shit Howdy T 

Risk Brothers Roof 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Van Betten, Mamusia, Harrison
Page Views: 4,312
Submitted By: John Wilder on Feb 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The start of the cruxy moves. Way fun!


This stout roof is probably as neglected as Shit Howdy, but it is well worth the hike, especially if you start your day on Shit Howdy. Burl up the obvious crack system to the roof, continue the burl fest through the roof to the chains.


This route is not located on the Shit Howdy boulder, but rather up and right, just about halfway between Physical Graffitti and Shit Howdy. If you're at Shit Howdy, look for the large hueco (3+ feet) on a cliff a little up and right. Risk Brothers is directly above this on the next major cliff) From Shit Howdy- head up to the crest of the hills and then right along the top, dropping down when the first real choice presents itself. You should see an obvious 3' wide ledge about 6' up running along the base of a cliff. Risk Brothers heads up the middle of this cliff. The best bet is to spot the cliff from the parking lot and keep it in view.


Gear to 3", double up 2" and 3"

Photos of Risk Brothers Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Andy Hansen digs deep for jams on the roof. <br /> <br /><a href='' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' ></a>
Andy Hansen digs deep for jams on the roof.

Risk Brothers Roof. Photo by M. Taylor.
Risk Brothers Roof. Photo by M. Taylor.
My onsight attempt. Feet first for this section worked really well, now I just gotta figure out how to get out of it and pull over the roof smoothly.
My onsight attempt. Feet first for this section wo...
Pure peeeerfect hands!
Pure peeeerfect hands!
Setting up for the fun roof! Photo taken by Arno Ilgner
Setting up for the fun roof! Photo taken by Arno I...
Comments on Risk Brothers Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By Phil Esra
Nov 29, 2011

Really, really fun, if short. Great little belay ledge. Rap anchors at the top. A little soft for the grade compared to Yosemite. Rewards good jamming technique.

By Mark SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 22, 2012

A 0.75 camalot slots nicely to keep your belayer on the ledge if you blow the opening moves. Aside from that, 2 #1s & 2 or 3 #3s should see you thru. Amazing route. Short, but for RR at least legit 11a
The climb is in the shade but a short hike from the ridge where you can find some sun. Also worthwhile to walk past the climb and spot it from the floor before picking your approach up the gully

By Weston L
From: Summerlin, NV
Dec 30, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun and short climb. Great first 5.11 lead, protects very well and is perfect hands through a roof. Super fun and worth the hike.

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Apr 22, 2014

The roof is the crux but don't downplay the start, as it's pretty strenuous off the deck and if you blow it you'll asshat your belayer. Protects well with 2 or 3 finger sized pieces and 2 hand-sized pieces. Also, a 0.75 or 0.5 camalot is good for a redirect above the roof to prevent your second from swinging.

No idea how to get onto the ledge from below, though. My friend and I ended up hiking around to the back and tunneling through between the main boulder and the enormous flake that is next to it. Well worth exploring that route as it is a pretty cool location.