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Cynical Pinnacle
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Center Route T 
Class Act S 
CMC Route T 
Hand Job (aka West Face) T 
Hand Job Direct T 
Monkey in the Forest T 
Off-width Route TR 
Rap Crack T 
Rising Crescendo T 
Turf Spreader T 
Twist O' Flex T 
Wunsch's Dihedral T 

Rising Crescendo 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 175'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rob Wolfe?
Page Views: 1,183
Submitted By: stevecurtis on Nov 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Lisa starting up the crux pitch of RC.

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  • Description 

    This excellent route starts with the Center Route. Head directly right from the center route start, on a weakness/dike, 5.9 R. About 25 feet right there is a crack that arches back left. The first part is the crux--difficult gear and run out 11b PG-13. The crack arches left and crosses back over the Center Route. This is the first belay. From this belay, head straight up the thin crack and then up and left to the Fender dihedral. 11+ PG-13.

    Per Kevin Stricker: The route starts in the Turf Spreader chimney, then traverses out below the TS roof for a spicy pitch to link into the start you describe. This second pitch if taken all the way to the 1st belay of Center Route is full value and challenging as you cannot see your belayer for over 150 feet of climbing and you are traversing above sometimes marginal protection (11b R). You can easily break it up into two pitches with the first part being the scariest, and belay before the hand crack that leads to the Center Route P1 anchor.

    Location 

    Start is same location as the Center Route. There are usually sling anchors in the Fender dihedral for rapping, or continue up the Fender crux---full of shit, and then Wunsch's Dihedral.

    Protection 

    Full range 3 HB to #3 Camalot. 1 piece each hand sizes, doubles on TCU/Aliens. HBs. RPs.


    Photos of Rising Crescendo Slideshow Add Photo
    Rob following the traverse pitch.
    Rob following the traverse pitch.

    Comments on Rising Crescendo Add Comment
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    By slim
    Administrator
    Nov 17, 2009

    This one is high on my list. It looks like you could start it down by the first (chimney) pitch of Turfspreader, and head up left to meet up with your described first pitch. The thin crack that goes left from Center Route to Fender dihedral looks pretty cool.
    By Kevin Stricker
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Nov 18, 2009

    Steve, your description leaves out the whole start of the route. The route starts in the Turf Spreader chimney, then traverses out below the TS roof for a spicy pitch to link into the start you describe. This second pitch if taken all the way to the 1st belay of Center route is full value and challenging as you cannot see your belayer for over 150 feet of climbing and you are traversing above sometimes marginal protection (11b R). You can easily break it up into two pitches with the first part being the scariest, and belay before the hand crack that leads to the Center Route P1 anchor.

    Your rack description is lacking in the small RPs needed for the start of the climb. Rob Woolf did the FA, I'm not sure about his partner. They finished with the upper pitches of Wunsch's, which makes this one of the longest hard routes in the Spires.
    By Oliver Hill
    May 17, 2010

    I climbed this with Rob Woolf. Rob led all the pitches.We discovered this line when rapping from Wunsch's and then saw that when viewed from below there was a continuous crack line rising diagonally left from Turfspreader to Wunsch's. We felt very lucky to be able to have FAed this line, the second pitch of which always winks at you when you climb Center Route. Each pitch has its own charm: an initially scary hand traverse that is not too bad once you get started. The hard entrance to the second pitch followed by the deceptively awkward start to the hand crack. The third pitch we actually thought was about as hard as Wunsch's Brearshears crack, hence the name Rising Crescendo, the continuous crackline. Starting at the beginning of Centre Route would be a complete cop out. Continuing up Wunsch's is the logical goal and gives a very stiff challenge, which unfortuntely we did not take up. A coulpe of months later Olaf and I tried to do the link up, but fizzled out after pitch 2. I am very interested to hear how any linker-uppers found it. I would think a must for any true Cynical Pinnacler.
    By stevecurtis
    From: Petaluma California
    Jun 8, 2010

    I've read the replies to my post--finally. I posted this while sitting bored in Honduras. If I forgot RPs on the gear list--my mistake. I remember placing a #3 on the first pitch, and another small wire. I thought the gear was good at the first crux-pg not R.

    I've done the route three times. I seem to remember starting in the chimney on my first ascent--about 1997. I think starting at the center route start and heading directly right at unprotected 5.9 is best for the reason one of the reviewers stated--it is much easier to communicate. Cop out? Oliver, you have my regrets. I thought one still does the first pitch cruxes. If not, rename my variation "Rising Crescendo Adulterated by a Californian"

    I found the second pitch stiff, but not so hard as Breashears. Again, a bit run out but not dangerous. I've continued up Fenders into Wunsch's dihedral. Rising Crescendo is the mental and physical crux.

    In summary, Rising Crescendo is a great route. First ascentionists, you have my gratitude.
    By Olaf Mitchell
    From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
    Feb 4, 2011

    In my opinion, one of the best link ups on Cynical is "Hot Rise". The first pitch of "Turf Spredder" to "Rising Cresendo" to "Center Route" to "Class Act". This provides five very enjoyable pitches and tops out on Cynical. It was reported in Peter Hubbel's guidebook years ago.
    By Scott Bennett
    Jan 7, 2013

    Wow, did this today, linking P3 of RC through the book on Wunsch's for an awesome 70m pitch.

    Those two pitches (P2 of RC and P3 linked to Wunsch's) must be two of the better looong back-to-back granite pitches I've done.
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Feb 2, 2013

    Absolutely fantastic climb. My favorite route in the South Platte. It is R-ish... not so bad if you aren't at the limit of your ability.

    Keep going up Wunsch's. It is worth it.