Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Mark Tarrant, et al
Page Views: 3,092 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on May 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the "sport route" that climbs above The Serpent on Upper Redgarden. This is a unique and really cool route that I think should get more attention (and a star in the guidebook). Start with the boulder problem on The Serpent, then follow that sparsely protected route for 30 or 40 feet. When The Serpent trends left, keep going straight up, aiming for a shallow, left-facing corner system. Eventually, you'll clip the first of 8 bolts. From here, the view upward is very disheartening (it looks blank!), but hidden holds keep appearing. The first crux is right where the route veers left under a roof, and the second is at the very end and is the one of the few hard routes I've ever done where the crux of the climb is downclimbing! This is sort of like a harder, leftward version of Le Boomerang.

Protection Suggest change

Bring wires, Tri-cams, etc. for the start, quickdraws for the second half.

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