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Red Springs Rock
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YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 960
Submitted By: Cunning Linguist on Apr 19, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>


A funky line that is not for everyone. A wide layback with one bolt leads to an "a cheval" ride across the top of the flake, clipping 2 bolts, then steep pulling over a bulge to a gear-protected seam. This leads up crispy crack to a rest stance, some sketchball loose flake wrestling, a fixed thread, and a short corner leading to a roof with a downward-facing half inch bolt. Pull right around the roof, clip a high bolt, navigate through steep terrain to one last bolt, and make a final throw to a jug and clip chains at chest level. If you clip the chains before the throw, you wussed out.


Just right of Rocky Road, a good landmark is the wide layback crack up the smooth slab.


Eight bolts and a single rack to 1", maybe a second set of TCUs for those wanting to load up the gear. We found ballnutz useful but others may demur. Long slings or double rope technique will be appreciated when hitting the steeps on this long pitch. 70M rope required to lower.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 17, 2015
By Cunning Linguist
Apr 19, 2014

Similar to Mavericks, this line had been looked at for a long time by members of the first ascent party, but snow in the canyons and short winter days finally made this send a necessity. Upon pulling over the top (Nate dragged his pumped self over the top above a #1 ballnut and found an anchor three moves higher than he wanted it) he saw an awkwardly placed TR anchor and some initials, a date, and a name for the "climb", written in Sharpie directly on the rock.

What a proud legacy we leave for future generations by scrawling graffiti on the rock.

This route recieved it's first ascent via ground-up, no hooks, chalkess climbing. We added several bolts to keep people from hurting themselves (until higher on the route).
By Mark Limage
Apr 21, 2014

If indeed you had been looking at this route for a long time, then you would've seen the top-rope anchors on both this route and "Mavericks." No, this route did not see "its first ascent via ground-up, no hooks, chalkless climbing." Both routes were top-roped no less than a dozen times by me and a few friends, more than 6 years ago. I can't speak to what dip-shit felt the need to scrawl a date/name with a sharpie at the top of the route but it wasn't done by anyone in my party. Curious why you chose to make Mavericks a clip-up while using ball-nuts and threads in chossy rock to protect the mid-upper part of Rip Curl? Too bad we cleaned it up for you and you didn't get to it in its virgin state; your chalkless adventure would have been more stimulating. Thanks for (partially) bolting up my TR lines.
By Cunning Linguist
Apr 21, 2014

Ooh you mad bro. Nice sharpie work up there.

Edit to add: civility breeds such, the opposite likewise. It's interesting to note the different approaches to the same rock face...one is surprised that the investigation didn't begin at the top while the other...well, we just went out and did some rock climbing. I think these unreported TR lines are worthy and contrasting leads, and, just to answer the chain yank...the clip up takes a face and unprotectable seam. The mixed line has cracks that take good enough gear to keep us happy. Thus..............................ah, you'll figure it out.
By Mark Limage
Apr 22, 2014

"mad"? Not even. Amused...by your constant drivel? Sometimes. So, "an unprotectable seam" on Mavericks is bolted ground-up with no hooks? Very impressive free-stance drilling...with no chalk! Bravo...you are so bold and so trad. We are so fortunate that the "snow in the canyons and the short winter days finally made this send a necessity." Would've been a real shame if a hone-master like you didn't have the opportunity to display his skill set above the Red Springs picnic area while bringing to a fruition a couple of unknown/unnamed top-rope problems. My testicles small. Yours HUGE.
By Cunning Linguist
Apr 22, 2014

Well put.

Check out this website: how2topropelikeaboss.org
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
Apr 24, 2014

Sweet! I love TRing rad lines! Ken Nichols and I are going to come out and climb this thing on TR, like it was meant to be climbed. Then we're gonna chop the bolts, punch this "SexPanther" character in the jaw, and then speed back to Connecticut, cackling wildly. I'll make sure to bring a fresh Sharpie to touch up the name of the route first.
By Sheriff Sniffles
Apr 28, 2014

The dubious ethical elitist is at it again. Puffing out his chest like a lobo. In reality, the muscle flexing underneath all that 5.8 flab translates directly to why his girlfriend left him. A real sex panther, indeed! Theivery, debauchery, ego, and chalkless futuristic ground up ascents is what this petty soul represents; probably all why using link cams, ball nutz, and other gumby necessities. Do us all a favor and check in to the psychiatric ward and fix that lose screw. In addition, stop being an internet tough guy yet call the police/lawyers when confronted for your negligent decaying actions!

The little chubby boy that could... Choo! Choo!
By Cunning Linguist
Apr 28, 2014

^^^^I am such a big fan of your writing. Any chance you can share some of your secrets to being so....so...well, tough on the Internet? I can aspire to your incessant, surreal banter and vitriol, but the toughness....that's hard to achieve without some kind of god-given gift. Maybe you can share some more fabricated personal details to underline your virtues, versus my failings. In person? I'd love to buy you a frosty milkshake and pick your brain. My treat!
By Ladron de Engranajes
Jan 23, 2015

So have the retro-bolts been chopped yet?
By Cunning Linguist
Jan 23, 2015

Don't you have some ropes to fix on something? I bet with enough fixed lines and a few years, you could have put up a toprope like this. PS does it feel good to know that your friends have lost their careers defending lies that you told, while you remain too cowardly to even post this childish stuff under your own name?

Tell you what, you want personal. Why did your wife divorce you? Anything to do with anger issues?
By Adam Burch
Jan 23, 2015

Good stuff!
By Cunning Linguist
Jan 23, 2015

Tell me about it. Want to hear about that badass trip to the Ruth Gorge where even having mcCray as a ropegun couldn't get Humbel and his hetero lifemate up a climb? Or the climbs in Sandstone that required spraying chemicals all over the rock to try to "firm up" a sandbox. Or the one that they sprayed glue all over the ground while reinforcing/adding holds, treating our public lands like a bridge overpass instead of a national treasure, Or should I relax and not get so personal? Dunno, it's the Internet, lowest common denominator rules. The sad thing is, I really enjoyed these climbs, and thought they were a really cool addition to Red Springs, which is full of great climbing already. Steep as hell, varied, and in the case of Ripcurl, the kind of climb that could satisfy a full on sporto and a crunchy trad cat as well. Maybe someone will climb these and post up something useful here one day. I still think Austin and Mark's posts were hilarious.
By Cunning Linguist
Jan 24, 2015

I guess CHUD is criticizing something he hasn't done, when it comes to this climb, I'd point out the irony, but since he has problems figuring things out, I'll refrain. The Internet rules!
By Adam Burch
Mar 17, 2015

MOAR name dropping please!
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