This is a nice bit of friction on the smaller face to the north (right) of the main face. It is essentially a one-move wonder. Climb the Zipper-like flake at about 5.5. Protect well where it ends, about 8 feet below the top. The climb consists of navigating this blank section. Smear and trick your way through to some uninviting slopers (only one or two moves of .10a) and top out. It is scary above the gear!
This is on the narrow face to the right of the main face. The flake is an obvious feature.
Small cams and nuts. The flake is never wider than green Camalot size.
EXCELLENT route, no need for a bolt if you are confident in your gear placement, just place a couple of pieces below the crux and fire it, the fall is clean although slabby and the crux is over quickly.
I agree. In fact this is good route for starting to wean oneself from bolts. You can get multiple pieces of easy high quality gear in the crack. The moves up from there are spooky for sure-- I'd even say hard for the grade-- but the gear is at your feet and as soon as you make the move the first move, it gets easier. I think it would actually be harder to stop and clip at the point.
Do people go straight up from the crack or step right to the little shallow nub? I have seen it done both ways but I always head out right. Maybe that's my mistake.
Jim, I think I've avoided going out right because there is glue/chopped bolt garbage on that face. If I remember, I place my gear carefully, then make a high smear/slanted toe jam with a foot (R/L?), then move my other foot up and then finish up.
+1 for no bolt. This was my first outdoor 5.10, trad OR sport. For Red Rocks 5.10 slab, it's only beaten by Morning Glory. Yeah I call 5.10 on Morning Glory, sorry....
You guys sure this route isn't more appropriately named: "Rip Van Winkler" ? It used to have a 1/4" button head and Leeper hanger about 4~6' above the terminus of the crack, making it a really fun (less scary) lead. Since it originally had a bolt there someone aught to replace it?