Rip Van Winkle 

It's called Rip Van Winkle. Look in Boston Rocks.

The Dark Side of the Moon is the small wall before the main face on the trail up near the highway. It's the flake.

Solo.

Very fun route, would be much better IMO with a bolt protecting top crux. As is, it probably gets very few leads which is too bad.

EXCELLENT route, no need for a bolt if you are confident in your gear placement, just place a couple of pieces below the crux and fire it, the fall is clean although slabby and the crux is over quickly.

I second the no need for a bolt comment. Super fun climb, you can get excellent gear in the last part of the crack, and I took the ride before sending and the fall isn't bad at all.

I agree. In fact this is good route for starting to wean oneself from bolts. You can get multiple pieces of easy high quality gear in the crack. The moves up from there are spooky for sure-- I'd even say hard for the grade-- but the gear is at your feet and as soon as you make the move the first move, it gets easier. I think it would actually be harder to stop and clip at the point.

Do people go straight up from the crack or step right to the little shallow nub? I have seen it done both ways but I always head out right. Maybe that's my mistake.

One of my favorite little climbs for some reason.

Jim

Jim, I think I've avoided going out right because there is glue/chopped bolt garbage on that face. If I remember, I place my gear carefully, then make a high smear/slanted toe jam with a foot (R/L?), then move my other foot up and then finish up.

+1 for no bolt. This was my first outdoor 5.10, trad OR sport. For Red Rocks 5.10 slab, it's only beaten by Morning Glory. Yeah I call 5.10 on Morning Glory, sorry....

I'll have to try that direct route sometime. I don't remember the glue/chopped bolt though.

Morning Glory is only 5.10 on lead; 5.8+ otherwise.

The "+" is crucial.

Jim