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Rip Off 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rob Stahl, John Wolfe & Dave Stahl, November 1972
Page Views: 384
Submitted By: Locker on Feb 14, 2005
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"Rip Off".
Photo by Blitzo.


This route is deceptively difficult for a 5.6 (Or I was off route which is certainly possible). But at the start, moving to a small roof, moving left found me wondering about it's rating. Once around the roof and it felt 5.5/5.6. The best part of this route is the start. It can be done moving up from the left side as well. But that would take the fun away on a pretty uninteresting climb. Something to do while in the area doing the better climbs. But not one to seek out.


Standard Rack

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By Alex Peterson
From: Kamas, Utah
Nov 17, 2012

Crux is at the bottom. You can pro it, but then moving up past the roof can feel awkward and sketchy. I did this one three different ways at the start. Around the left makes it a 5.5. Straight up is a 5.6, but tough to protect some smearing moves over the bulges. Go right (right under the big roof) then you can pro it and it is still a 5.6 (just very awkward). Finished by setting up as a TR for the kids. Very nice warm winter climb.