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Rio de Janeiro-Urca

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Pão de Açúcar - West Face 
Pão de Açúcar- South/East Side 
Pão de Açúcar-The Totem 

Rio de Janeiro-Urca  


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Elevation: 36'
Page Views: 4,662
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: John Yaworsky on Jul 23, 2007
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Pico Maior de Nova Friburgo. Parque Estadual dos T...

Description 

From sea shore to the "serra", Rio de Janeiro State offers all kinds of climbing routes. There is a bit of everything in Urca, from 5.3 to 5.13+; and lot's of bouldering. Climb Sugarloaf, have a beer on top and take the tram down.

Getting There 

Very easy to find from Copacabana and Rio.Most routes have very short trail approaches

Climbing Season



Weather station 220.7 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Rio de Janeiro-Urca
Following the second pitch of "Cavalo Louco"

Cavalo Louco 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  South America : Brazil : ... : Pão de Açúcar - West Face
6 pitches. 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.Then pitches 2-5 trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses. All these pitches are bolted but with some fairly long runouts between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to keep down rope drag even on the bolted pitches. You could probably place some smaller pieces to ease the runouts on a few sections.At the top of pitch 5 on big le...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Rio de Janeiro-Urca Slideshow Add Photo
Copacabana Beach from Pao de Acucar, late 1988 or early 1989.
Copacabana Beach from Pao de Acucar, late 1988 or ...
Pao de Acucar, or Suglarloaf, late 1988 or early 1989.  Sting was up on top.  Yeah that Sting.  Amazing city.
Pao de Acucar, or Suglarloaf, late 1988 or early 1...
Rio De Janeiro, late 1988 or early 1989.
Rio De Janeiro, late 1988 or early 1989.
Escalada do Curso Básico de Montanhismo no Pão de Açucar, Rio de Janeiro.
Escalada do Curso Básico de Montanhismo no Pão de ...
Pedra Hime, Jacarepaguá, Rio de Janeiro.
Pedra Hime, Jacarepaguá, Rio de Janeiro.
Place in southern Brazil called Pedra do Bau.  We did a sketchy via ferrata to the top.  Late 1988.
Place in southern Brazil called Pedra do Bau. We ...
Morro do Capacete, Nova Friburgo, Estado do Rio de Janeiro.
Morro do Capacete, Nova Friburgo, Estado do Rio de...
Pico Maior de Salinas visto do cume do Capacete. Município de Nova Friburgo, estado do Rio de Janeiro.
Pico Maior de Salinas visto do cume do Capacete. M...
Rio de Janeiro visto da via K2, debaixo do Cristo Redentor, Rio de Janeiro.
Rio de Janeiro visto da via K2, debaixo do Cristo ...

Comments on Rio de Janeiro-Urca Add Comment
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By John Yaworsky
Jul 23, 2007
The climbing is amazing. Dos Italianos to Segundo on Sugrloaf is THE classic multi pitch 5.10
By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Nov 28, 2007
There is a Cable Car that arrives at the summit of the Pão de Açúcar and climbers may descend to the mid station using this cable car free of charge!! After 7pm the ride to the bottom is free as well.
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
Apr 2, 2010
The ride down is no longer free of charge. We climbed up and were definitely forced to buy a ticket to descend on the cable car
By Step hen
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 5, 2010
Anyone have beta on Corcovado?
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 28, 2012
Guidebook link - guiadaurca.com/livraria/livrar...

I believe all of these are printed in both Portuguese and English.
By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Jan 3, 2013
For climbers, the ride down to the intermediate station (Morro da Urca) is still free. From there, it's a short 10-15 minute hike back to the parking lot.