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This route is near Point Break, and shares a small amount of terrain with that route, but is not very similar. Refer to the Point Break description to help locate this climb.
The first pitch is difficult to locate and is a little grungy, the climbing gets better with altitude.
Pitch 1 & 2: On a face somewhat left of Point Break, and just left of a "black lichened, right-facing dihedral" start climbing an easy crack. Theoretically, you would belay below a rotten band, but frankly, I didn't see much worth stopping for. After passing a small roof, close and on your right about 80' up, head sharply up and right to join the second pitch Point Break, sharinging the last 20' of the pitch. Belay on the belay tree as for Point Break.
WARNING: If you do not head hard right you may well instead end up going straight-up a vertical and even overhanging face to a right-facing, right-leaning lichenous dihedral. There is a lot of rotten rock on this 5.10-, VS variation. I refer to this as "Undertow." (no stars- complete bomb) There was some chalk crossing through 'Undertow' and further left, so I believe parts of it have been previously climbed, but have gone undocumented. I am not sure.
Pitch 3: From the belay tree, set a belay- the leader will have to walk 25 to 30 feet down and right on the rotten ledge to a large roof to start the pitch, because there is no good belay down there. Pull the roof to the face and arete above on secure, but possibly breakable holds with minimal gear below. This felt like 5.9+ to me. The gear would prevent a truly dangerous fall, but the ledge lurks just 8' below, so watch your ankles. After pulling the roof, continue up the face and arete on the right, passing an old bolt along the way. After 70' or so there will be a tree around the corner to the right, solidly rooted on a ledge in a dihedral; belay there.
Pitch 4: Go up and left above the dike you are standing near. Continue for 50 to 60 feet on 5.6 runout terrian until you reach the base of a massive, open-book dihedral. Climb up this dihedral and crack system to its overhanging top (5.9), where you pull up and left onto the slab at the bolted Point Break anchor.
Rap Point Break on 2 ropes or finish in a crack system in the corner above, shared with Point Break (5.5).
Standard rack: Set of nuts, small tricams and a set of cams. This route is somewhat runout due to face climbing and rock quality. If you end up off route, you may be climbing is VS territory. [Variation] "Undertow" is rated VS.
Joseffa starts out left on the easy but airy P4 of...
After a turn to go vertical, Joseffa finishes up t...
Moderate, but exposed. Tony Bubb follows the final...
|By Lenny Miller|
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R
Combining P1-2 was difficult for my partner (lots of rope drag) and took a full 60m. I suggest belaying below the rotten band as Levin describes in the guidebook. He found a good belay just below the P3 roof (on the face below the ledge) that helped make the roof a bit safer to lead. I found reasonable small gear below the P3 roof, and a 0.5 Camalot at the lip. Nonetheless, I agree with Tony - the roof is a fright-fest and felt like 10- to me. Getting established to the right is the crux - after you've committed to the move. I pulled a 6" square x 1" thick plate off while searching for a hold. Very unnerving. The bolt is an old rusty 1/4" that I wouldn't place much faith in (replacement anyone?). There is some good gear on this pitch, but it is spicy. P4 is solid, with good gear, until the traverse L to the Pt Break belay, where a fall would result in a nasty swing back into the dihedral.
Overall, P1 & 2 are bombs, the roof is hard and scary, but the position and climbing above that are quite good.
Oct 1, 2012
Definitely adventure climbing in Eldo...Dan G. combined the first two pitches, and we were apparently off route. He ended up climbing just right of a very small tree/bush (his only pro in 40 feet) through a nasty rotten band up to a small, right-facing dihedral. He traversed right up the ramp from there to join the last section of Point Break. Not terribly hard climbing but extremely run out and very rotten. Probably R/X given that you would hit the slab below if you fell. Rope drag was the worst I have ever seen - easily 40-60 lbs (I belayed the third in our group). I would break it into two if I ever did it again.
The pitch 3 roof was more tricky than difficult. Acceptable gear might hold and might keep you off of the ramp if it holds. Once you figure out the feet and commit, the moves aren't that hard. After you pull the roof, you can get some questionable gear, and then about 20 feet farther right you get two bomber placements. The "bolt" is an artifact, although it seemed good for its age and the fact that it was a 1/4 incher.
All in all, I would give the route 1 star for quality of climbing; however, the runout on pitch 2 through the rotten band will keep me from climbing this again.