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P1. Start out on the left side buttress at the base of the route and work your way to the bolted anchor under the roof. Climbing can range from 5.6-5.9 depending on what part of the buttress you take to the anchor.
P2. Crux pitch - .10d. Technical and balancy traverse past 6-8 closely spaced bolts. Good crimps for hands, small flake edges for feet and a few smears on varnished depressions. Hardest move for me was between last bolt and the bolted anchor.
P3. Book says that this pitch is .10a, but it didn't feel any harder than 5.9. Crux is supposed to be off the anchor and protected with two bolts. Remainder of pitch is easy and ends at another bolted anchor.
P4. 5.8 boring and uneventful, just climb until you get to the bolted anchor.
P5. .10a (book calls it 5.9) Second crux pitch that follows the awkward dihedral between the pillar and the main wall. Stay inside the corner and work your feet up high to an awkward stem or jam the dihedral corner straight in. Seek out good jams and eventual good jugs. Top out on the pillar and belay/rappel from sunbleached slings slung around big blocks.
Rappel route with one 70m rope or two 60's. If simulrappeling, be careful when lowering from the top of p2, the anchors will be just out of reach and recessed (under the roof). Use prussiks.
Joins Rainbow Buttress route which climbs the right side of the huge Black Tower (a few hundred feet up the hill and to the right of Levitation 29). Also the first four pitches are the same as Mountain Beast.
single rack, BD .3-3. A few long runners, 10 draws. Bolts on P2-3 only.
From: San Francisco
Nov 30, 2009
Crux pitch was awesome! Last pitch was fun too, everything else was uneventful and easy.