Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Bernard, Katie, and Claire Gillett, 2005
Page Views: 1,499 total · 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a nice route for kids or beginner climbers that can be led or toproped. Very short kids may have challenges with the approach.

Follow a right-angling undercling onto a slab with a low crux. Footholds become more generous as you go higher, but handholds become leaner. Handholds above the undercling may need to be pointed out for the focused youngster. Move left when you top out the lower slab. You can move left and join The Sword That Was Broken at its top slab or move right finish the 5.6 R finish at the top. The 2 bolt anchor with chains tucked in just over the lip at the top. The chains are thin, so plan on a final run up the slab to clean the anchor. Both Erin, 6, and Jackie, 11, thought the 5.4 version of this route was easier than The Sword That Was Broken, its neighbor to the left.

Note, small rattlesnakes with buzzing rattles may reside below this route.

The approach to the left via a slot and a high step onto a slab will require a spot for the kids.

Location Suggest change

This is to the right of the bolts on the Scout Slab which lies just across the drainage from the bulk of the routes at Scout Rock. It is closer than the distance you could throw a ring from the car.

Protection Suggest change

Light rack to #4 Camalot or TR.

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