ring finger tendon/pully injury
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Hi all, I was climbing, crimping and i heard a pretty good pop, i immediatley stopped climbing. Its been about 7 weeks now, and i still cant fully close my ring finer all the way to my palm. my finger bends fine at the first and second knuckle but the very tip wont close all the way, I can force it closed but cant hold it in place after letting go. has anyone had the same injury, how long am i looking at. |
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I've been going through something similar and it's been about 9 weeks for me and it's just starting to feel a little better. |
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Tape it and keep climbing. Tendons heal slow because they get blood supply from the muscles near by not directly. So increase blood flow to them by climbing. Make no mistake don't go cranking hard and working projects. Just stick to easy open handed stuff and don't push it. |
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Don't climb, do hand therapy gentle stretching and gentle strengthening once the pain is settled enough. After you are pain free enough, ease into climbing. |
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thx guys, i have seen an orthopedic hand specialist, he was no help at all. i am seeing an occupational therapist now, neither have really given me any specific diagnosis as to what i actually injured. i am just concerned about the range of motion or lack there of in the tip of my finger. Hopefully someone else has had this same type of injury and can give me an idea of what i actually injured, and how long ill be down approximately. |
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Sounds like an A3 pulley . Just tape it and climb did mine about 2 months ago. Have done it before. There isn't much you can do. Take time off or take it easy and climb. Range of motion will come back slowly. |
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davemacleod.com/shop/makeor…
onlineclimbingcoach.blogspo… Buy Make or Break by Dave Macleod. He covers this injury. Tendons hate change (either decreasing or increasing load). Keep climbing on it but use a strict open hand grip. This means using only 3 fingers and keeping them straight. You put your pinky on there and you're crimping on your middle finger. I hurt my ring finger tendon (likely A3) and I stopped climbing for 2 weeks then went to pure open hand (no pinches, no bucket jugs) and only climbed things that didn't hurt at all. My open hand strength is stronger than when I hurt it and I'm all fine now 3.5 months later. I still watch it but I've started crimping again. When taping, you're not trying to support your hurt tendon. You're trying to keep it from crimping. I know it has an X on it, but I taped like this: lukermeadows.files.wordpres… I wrapped it around a bunch until it was 2 or 3 layers deep. This physically stopped me from being able to crimp. |