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DescriptionRincon is a small but amazing crag with probably the highest density of quality routes in all of Eldorado Canyon State Park. Rincon, for those unfamiliar with Spanish, means corner. Indeed, soaring corners abound here along with impeccable face climbs sprinkled with the occasional roof or crack system. While nearly all the climbs here are in the moderate range, certainly the 5.10s-5.11s are better represented. Spice flavors significant sections of rock here. This is not the cinnamon and nutmeg variety but of the "can't just take a whipper anywhere" flavor. Perhaps, it is even the birthplace for the Colorado headpointing subsociety. There is little for the low or high end climber here, but there is much to feed the soul of a large percentage of climbers. The views are soothing and extend to the continental divide. It's worth the walk. Getting ThereThe quickest way is to take the Rincon Cutoff Trail, which branches off of the Eldo Trail at the far end of the canyon. This trail cuts across a talus field near the base of the wall and deposits you around the Center Route. The wall may also be reached from the West Ridge--just continue hiking up the trail. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rincon:
Over and Out 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches Rincon - L of Center Route
Emerald City 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches Rincon - L of Center Route
Five-Ten Crack 5.10a Trad Rincon - Center Route & R
Over the Hill 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II Rincon - L of Center Route
Aerial Book 5.11a R Trad, TR, 2 pitches Rincon - L of Center Route
Point Break 5.11a Trad, Sport, Grade II Rincon - Center Route & R
Rincon 5.11a Trad, 4 pitches Rincon - Center Route & R
Center Route 5.11a/b Trad, 3 pitches Rincon - Center Route & R
Climb Of The Century 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch Rincon - L of Center Route
Aeronaut 5.11 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Rincon - L of Center Route
Spicoli 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch Rincon - Center Route & R
Aerospace 5.11c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches Rincon - L of Center Route
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts 5.11+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch Rincon - Center Route & R
Wendego 5.12a R Trad, 1 pitch Rincon - L of Center Route
Camouflage 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch Rincon - Center Route & R
The Evictor 5.12c R Trad, 1 pitch Rincon - L of Center Route
Fraid Line 5.13a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Rincon - L of Center Route
Surf's Up 5.13a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Rincon - L of Center Route
Must'a Been High 5.13 R Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Rincon - L of Center Route
The Final Eviction (aka Freeline) 5.13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Rincon - L of Center Route
Featured Route For Rincon
Center Route 5.11a/b CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Rincon - Center Route & R
Note: I've only climbed the first pitch to the bolted anchors.Start from the top of a large flat boulder, about 25' to the left of Rincon. The start is an intimidating left facing corner. However the start is actually pretty easy (9) with good holds and rests above. Continue in the right facing corner (yes, it changes) up under a large roof. There's a fixed pin under the roof of reasonable quality, but other gear is easy to place. Move up and traverse left around the corner below the roof. It is...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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