Rincon is a small but amazing crag with probably the highest density of quality routes in all of Eldorado Canyon State Park. Rincon, for those unfamiliar with Spanish, means corner. Indeed, soaring corners abound here along with impeccable face climbs sprinkled with the occasional roof or crack system. While nearly all the climbs here are in the moderate range, certainly the 5.10s-5.11s are better represented. Spice flavors significant sections of rock here. This is not the cinnamon and nutmeg variety but of the "can't just take a whipper anywhere" flavor. Perhaps, it is even the birthplace for the Colorado headpointing subsociety. There is little for the low or high end climber here, but there is much to feed the soul of a large percentage of climbers. The views are soothing and extend to the continental divide. It's worth the walk.
For some of the routes, the first pitch may be climbed and rapped off, but you will miss much if you only do the first pitch (e.g.Rincon and Aerospace are 4-pitch climbs). Although there are a few bolted lines, you will likely need your rack and protection skills to succeed here.
Often on a nice weekend, for good reason, this wall along with the West Ridge can be very popular with climbers. Its southern exposure makes it particularly pleasant during cooler months although early days in summer months can be delightful as well. Early in the day, this crag does offer shade.
The list of first ascentionists at this crag are amazing. They include: Kor, Ament, Dalke, Hurley, Culp, Olevsky, Erickson, Duncan, Ferguson, Candelaria, R. Briggs, B. Briggs, D. Hunter, Piana, Webster, Coyne, Hare, Rossiter, Archer, Sharp, Hersey, Achey, P. Adams, Goddard, B. Miller, S. Levin, among others.
Particular images from this crag lie resilient in the memories of those who aspire to climb smoothly here. They include Skip Guerin barefoot climbing Wendego in Glenn Randall's Vertigo Games and images of Derek Hersey so smooth physically and mentally on Center Route. As Steve Levin notes, there is excellent footage of the late Cameron Tague working Evictor in P. Mortimer's Scary Faces
Descents include some rappels or downclimbing gullies left or right of the crag.
Note, in particular for the Over the Hill area, there are lots of loose rock sitting on ledges. Do not sit here without being aware of what is above you. Also, note there is some poison ivy here, especially below Rincon. This is not a dog or kid-friendly area.
Note, if anyone has particularly good base digital photos for rendering a topo for this page, please let me know.
The quickest way is to take the Rincon Cutoff Trail, which branches off of the Eldo Trail at the far end of the canyon. This trail cuts across a talus field near the base of the wall and deposits you around the Center Route. The wall may also be reached from the West Ridge--just continue hiking up the trail.
Note: I've only climbed the first pitch to the bolted anchors.Start from the top of a large flat boulder, about 25' to the left of Rincon. The start is an intimidating left facing corner. However the start is actually pretty easy (9) with good holds and rests above. Continue in the right facing corner (yes, it changes) up under a large roof. There's a fixed pin under the roof of reasonable quality, but other gear is easy to place. Move up and traverse left around the corner below the roof. It is...[more]Browse More Classics in CO