|Colchuck Balanced Rock
P1- Start at lowest point of rock on wall. Climb grooves to splitter layback corner at mostly 5.10 with a 5.11 move in there. Excellent move at the top. Belay from tree.
P2- Climb slightly dirty cracks to large, obvious California ledge. 5.9
From the California Ledge, you have 2 options-
Option 1- climb from under the amazing black roof with the large white swath through it. Hand traverse out and pull the lip, following undulating hands, wide hands and fists seemingly forever. Belay at tree. This is an extremely long pitch. We named this pitch "The Gom Jabbar" based on the black box and the white needle, and the pain of "keeping your hand in the box." Read Dune if you don't know what I'm talking about.
Option 2- Climb the very wide crack. Helpful to have at least one #5 camalot. You can move out left from the top of the wide section and continue to ledge, or follow crack all the way.
P4- Climb the fun chimney up to a ledge. 5.8
P5- Climb the very fun and very long hand crack using knobs and the arete at 5.9. This brings you to the ridge and puts you right next to the obvious overhanging Cobra's Head formation. Ridge climb 4th class to summit.
Gear- helpful to have doubles of everything up to #3 and down to blue metolius. Singles of the smaller widgets. #5 useful for large crack.
Gom Jabbar pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Route topo
Cobra's Head formation