Start up short left facing corner and crack to hour-glass crack, pull through then step left under roof and climb up through notch split by fingercrack.
at top of left sector approach trail turn left. Begins 10' to right of the tree on the rock ledge. Below the obvious hourglass shaped crack 20' up.
Standard Rack, No anchors
BETA PHOTO: Rigor Mortise on right
|By P. Sully|
Nov 25, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
This route has 3 distinct finishes:
all three routes start the same and go through the hour-glass crack (crux #1).
You can step right after the crack and pull an easy roof. Then climb the white arete past a bolt. 5.10b FA: PS/PD
The classic route climbs straight through the wide crack/layback above the hourglass crack. Bring a large (#4 camalot) for the base of this crack. 5.10+ FA: Paul Sullivan & Joel Maynard
variation finish is to climb the fingercrack on the left noted in the description. 5.11b FA: Bill Saul