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Tombstone
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Rigor Mortis T 

Rigor Mortis 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 340', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2 [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter May 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,502
Submitted By: USBRIT on May 2, 2003

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Paul Ross on Pitch 3 first ascent of Rigor Mortis ...

Description 

Some interesting situations.Might be free climbable. On the first ascent three falls were taking caused by a few cams ripping out.The top crack is in good rock.The climb is located on the southern end of the Tombstone, about 300' left of The Gift. 3 minute walk from the parking area.Nice camping area.

P1. Climb a left facing groove/crack to a large ledge. Bolt belay 60' 5.7

P2. Enter the groove system via a short overhanging section with a very thin crack. Pass one bolt to more thin crack and follow this to a good ledge and a bolt belay. 85' C2

P3. On the right wall of the big corner follow the 1/2" to 1 1/2" crack with an occasional larger cam to the final 1 1/2" crack in the exposed headwall. 180' 5.9 C2 Descent.If rapping the route looks awkward there are other raps down the routes to the north

Protection 

Three sets of Friends up to 3 1/2", two 4s, two 5s. One leeper camhook, 1 set of Stoppers.


Photos of Rigor Mortis Slideshow Add Photo
Paul Ross On Pitch 3 . F.A. 'Rigor Mortis'. Tombst...
Paul Ross On Pitch 3 . F.A. 'Rigor Mortis'. Tombst...
Paul half way on final pitch
Paul half way on final pitch

Comments on Rigor Mortis Add Comment
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By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 21, 2011

Cool route, while looking up at that headwall pitch it begs to be climbed. The 3rd pitch is awesome. As far as gear. we placed 1 #5 but could have gotten through without it, we also didn't need the leeper cam hook. Many yellow metolious, .5, .75, and #1 camalots are helpful for the headwall pitch. The rock is a little scary even in the cracks, put the placements deep because if they are placed too close to the edge they will blow out. We had trouble pulling the ropes from the top, it would be helpful if someone were to extend the anchors over the edge. After a second jug to the top, we made it work by getting the ropes spread out in seperate grooves to lesson the friction. have fun.
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Apr 20, 2012

I'll just leave this here...


By Hockman
Apr 24, 2014

Rappel Beta*****

As A. Roberts said:

"We had trouble pulling the ropes from the top, it would be helpful if someone were to extend the anchors over the edge."

Well so did we.

I left a double length runner and a locking carabiner extending the anchor at the top of the route. (After jugging our lines TWICE because they wouldn't pull).

The bolts (2) on the top are suspect. They need to be replaced. Both are protruding about an inch out of the rock leaving the hangers loose and flapping around in the wind. Perhaps this was cause by wind erosion? ?? Proceed at your own risk. If I am up there again I will replace the bolts. Anyone else feel free though please.

Other than that the route is great. Lots of small cams. No need for a #5.

Have fun :)
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Apr 25, 2014

Hi Matt . Glad you had fun on the climb. Perhaps other folks if those rap bolts you mentioned are not replaced they could check out the raps from the other climbs to the north. Cheers