|Type:||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 340', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C2 [details]|
|FA:||Paul Ross, Layne Potter May 2003|
|Submitted By:||Little Chamonix on May 2, 2003|
|Comments on Rigor Mortis||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 21, 2011
|Cool route, while looking up at that headwall pitch it begs to be climbed. The 3rd pitch is awesome. As far as gear. we placed 1 #5 but could have gotten through without it, we also didn't need the leeper cam hook. Many yellow metolious, .5, .75, and #1 camalots are helpful for the headwall pitch. The rock is a little scary even in the cracks, put the placements deep because if they are placed too close to the edge they will blow out. We had trouble pulling the ropes from the top, it would be helpful if someone were to extend the anchors over the edge. After a second jug to the top, we made it work by getting the ropes spread out in seperate grooves to lesson the friction. have fun.|
By Benjamin F
From: Arcata, CA
Apr 20, 2012
I'll just leave this here...
Apr 24, 2014
As A. Roberts said:
"We had trouble pulling the ropes from the top, it would be helpful if someone were to extend the anchors over the edge."
Well so did we.
I left a double length runner and a locking carabiner extending the anchor at the top of the route. (After jugging our lines TWICE because they wouldn't pull).
The bolts (2) on the top are suspect. They need to be replaced. Both are protruding about an inch out of the rock leaving the hangers loose and flapping around in the wind. Perhaps this was cause by wind erosion? ?? Proceed at your own risk. If I am up there again I will replace the bolts. Anyone else feel free though please.
Other than that the route is great. Lots of small cams. No need for a #5.
Have fun :)
By Little Chamonix
Apr 25, 2014
|Hi Matt . Glad you had fun on the climb. Perhaps other folks if those rap bolts you mentioned are not replaced they could check out the raps from the other climbs to the north. Cheers|