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Pitch 1: (110 feet, 5.10) This is the farthest route left on top of the boulders. The first move is a step across the gap and likely the crux of the climb -- good feet but no hands and hard to stay on the rock. I recommend leaning across and clipping the first bolt (see photo) before stepping across the gap for the climb. Although it is fairly sustained climbing, I thought there was another crux at about bolt four or five. For me, the first pitch of "Rightist" was the hardest of the six moderate routes on Tanner Dome proper. There are about 12 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: This goes up and slightly right of a large roof on big holds. Mostly 5.7 climbing, with one move of about 5.8 just past the steep right side of the roof. Above the roof, there is a place where it's a little runout, but you can place a cam (I think I used a #1) in a crack for protection. This pitch is about 80 feet and 8 bolts to the two-bolt anchor. It is mostly 5.7 climbing with maybe one 5.8 move.
Descent: rappel the route in two rappels.
I highly recommend Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd edition" guidebook for a great description of the routes in the Tanner Dome area and throughout Colorado!!!
This is on Tanner Dome. This is farthest route left on top of the boulders -- it starts with a step across about a 3 foot gap over the top of where you hike up. The climb goes straight up towards the right side of a big roof that sits above the anchors of the 1st pitch.
About a dozen quickdraws. It may be helpful (but not required) to have one Camalot (about a size #1) for the top of the second pitch.
Hoot at the 1st pitch anchors.
Rightist, looking down from the 1st pitch anchors ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the 2nd pitch of Rightist as it goes ri...
|By J. Albers|
2 days ago
If you bailed and left a quickdraw on 'Rightest', describe it to me and I can try and get it back to you.
From: Durango, CO
Dec 7, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
First pitch pumped out the calf muscles big time!