P1: (5.7) Start in a channel with a very obvious black water streak. The first 40 feet are the steepest of the pitch, coming in a bit shy of vertical for a couple moves. It then eases up considerably. Follow up the slab to a small ledge at the base of a small wall. There should be two sets of anchors, mussy clips on your left and rings on your right. Use the Mussy anchor if continuing on to P2. A fun 5.9 (Head Wound) veers right.
P2: (5.8) Traverse slightly left and pull over the wall wherever suits you. Continue up some slab for a could of clips. The route will bifurcate yet again. Go left up the less steep, yet better rock, of the two. A fun move pulls onto the wall and jugs bring you to two open shuts.
I can't be definitive about the length. I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare. Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.
Towards the right side of Easy Street there is a large black streak in the middle of a small channel. You can't miss it.
About 8 draws should get you up both pitches. Mussy clips at the first anchor, open shuts at the second.
Leading the first pitch of Righteous Babe.
David & David hanging out atop the first pitch of ...
Nate & Mike Conroy hanging out atop the first pitc...
|By Michael Bartosek|
From: Los Angeles
Jun 15, 2010
Last time I was in this area, I lead headwound and one of my climbing partners led this route, if I recall the route was missing one of the anchors.
Anyone have any updated beta on the condition of this route?
|By Joe Dondero|
From: Isla Vista, CA
Jun 26, 2010
Yeah I was there today and at least at the end of the first pitch both anchors were there, mussy clips on the left and rap rings on the right. I finished head wound about a month ago and it had anchors at the top and I seem to remember seeing anchors at the top of the other routes on this wall so I would say all is good with anchors here.
|By Andrew McMullen|
Oct 9, 2012
Anchors on the top of Righteous babe look good as well as the rap rings on the first pitch of Head Wound. It's the anchors on the second pitch of Head Wound that look questionable.