|Slhanay (The Squaw)
Right Wing seeps and remains wet until the beginning of July (unless there's a dry spring). Keep this one for mid to late summer.
P1. Climb Eagles Domain (same start as for Birds of Prey), a finger crack up a slab (5.8) for 60m then move right to the base of the major Right Wing corner system (70m).
P2. A short, technical sport pitch (10c)
P3. The Filibuster. A blockbuster lead, going through all the sizes. Not a move harder than 10b, not a move easier than 10a... for 58m. Prepare for battle.
P4. What's Left... a left-facing beak. Way steeper than it looks. The pitch overhangs 4m and involves a crux kneebar under the flake. Wild!
between Birds of Prey/Pipeline, and The Great Game
bring everything you own. Triples to 1", doubles to 3", singles to 5".
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Quite something. Dr. Frimer replaced the original bolted belay half way through The Filibuster after he noticed lichen starting to grow over the route. This is advantageous as it theoretically opens the route up to mere mortals. This also removes the PG-13 rating as there's now a bolt following the anchor. He also fixed a rap route right on Eagle's Domain so the route can now be rapped with a single 60m. New topo here:
This route is a bit an epic experience. I don't normally climb 10+ nor is laybacking a strength of mine, so this was probably an ambitious as a goal. Some thoughts:
Eagle's Domain: fun, not a give away for the grade but whatevs. We both scrambled up to a flat stance before the real climbing started annd linked with a 70m. Traverse right along a bit of an undercling 15m before the BOP anchors past a tree to a chain anchor.
10c bolts: Tricky, but short. A0 is an option.
Filibuster p1: 10b laybacking. Get ready to punch it between pieces. You can milk some rests, if you heard there's no remorse on The Filibuster it's not true. Some frail rock and dirt here and there, hopefully that'll clean up over time. 25m
Filibuster p2: 10c (seriously?) laybacking and jamming. Don't get in the crack at the beginning, layback it. There are several hidden cracks, take gear ranging the gamut, even micro if you want. I definitely placed a purple Metolius but I'm also meek, so take that as you will. Felt hard to me. 30m.
Last pitch: We climbed the 10d fingers variation rather than buy a #5 and #6. I stemmed between the two variations until I could commit with my left hand to a jug flake that is part of a block that will probably go one day. Pull the bulge to more hard moves, still laybacking. Hero moves to the anchor. Sustained, steep and exposed. ~25m.
Needs more traffic to clean out the cracks more, so get out there. I gave it 4 stars because as far as I know there's nothing quite like it. Took doubles to #4 C4 with some triples in fingers for Eagle's Domain.