|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 500'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||F. Beckey, S. Davis, A. Givler|
|Season:||summer (wet in spring)|
|Submitted By:||Jeremy Frimer on Dec 30, 2010|
|Comments on Right Wing||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Quite something. Dr. Frimer replaced the original bolted belay half way through The Filibuster after he noticed lichen starting to grow over the route. This is advantageous as it theoretically opens the route up to mere mortals. This also removes the PG-13 rating as there's now a bolt following the anchor. He also fixed a rap route right on Eagle's Domain so the route can now be rapped with a single 60m. New topo here:
This route is a bit an epic experience. I don't normally climb 10+ nor is laybacking a strength of mine, so this was probably an ambitious as a goal. Some thoughts:
Eagle's Domain: fun, not a give away for the grade but whatevs. We both scrambled up to a flat stance before the real climbing started annd linked with a 70m. Traverse right along a bit of an undercling 15m before the BOP anchors past a tree to a chain anchor.
10c bolts: Tricky, but short. A0 is an option.
Filibuster p1: 10b laybacking. Get ready to punch it between pieces. You can milk some rests, if you heard there's no remorse on The Filibuster it's not true. Some frail rock and dirt here and there, hopefully that'll clean up over time. 25m
Filibuster p2: 10c (seriously?) laybacking and jamming. Don't get in the crack at the beginning, layback it. There are several hidden cracks, take gear ranging the gamut, even micro if you want. I definitely placed a purple Metolius but I'm also meek, so take that as you will. Felt hard to me. 30m.
Last pitch: We climbed the 10d fingers variation rather than buy a #5 and #6. I stemmed between the two variations until I could commit with my left hand to a jug flake that is part of a block that will probably go one day. Pull the bulge to more hard moves, still laybacking. Hero moves to the anchor. Sustained, steep and exposed. ~25m.
Needs more traffic to clean out the cracks more, so get out there. I gave it 4 stars because as far as I know there's nothing quite like it. Took doubles to #4 C4 with some triples in fingers for Eagle's Domain.
Sep 4, 2014
This thing is mega classic and pitch for pitch is up there with some of the best shorter multi pitch crack lines I have ever done (rostrum, Wunsch's, etc).
The first two pitches can easily be linked with a 70 meter and no simul-climbing required.
The Filibuster pitch is as good as advertised. Just a little dirtiness still in the bottom bit but should continue to clean up over time. Do it all in one pitch, it is a worthy challenge.
Gear- I brought triples from 0.3 to #1 , doubles to #3, and a single #4. Full set of stoppers. No micro gear needed on this one. I used every single cam on the Filibuster pitch.
Bigger gear would be needed for the standard (left) finish which looks rad, the right hand (10d) finish does not require big gear and is another quality pitch.
Do this line!
From: North Vancouver, BC
Jan 26, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Very amazing route. For the main dihedral the manly thing to do would be to send it in one enduro pitch. I'm not very manly.
We did the left finish and it's one of the raddest pitches out there. At one point I was kneebaring the overhanging giant beak flake, protected by a BD#5, and then had to pull over onto the flake with a heel hook. Amazing.
I didn't have a 6 which would be nice for the end of this pitch, though this part of the pitch is not really that difficult. I resorted to placing two cams, one on either side of a small chockstone, for the final moves.