Right Wall 5.4 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.4 [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Season: | Faces North |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Jun 11, 2011 |
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Description A short route in and of itself, but when linked to 'Slabbery', it makes for a reasonable pitch. The climb is perhaps best a solo or top-rope as gear is sparse, but the climbing solid and obvious, at least on this lower 30' of rock. (Perhaps Slabbery is a better TR than solo.) Start off from the flat platform 5 meters above the road facing and facing out to it, looking outward onto Quartzite Ridge, across the River. The right shoulder of the rock is substantially shorter than the main left side, and comes to a sharp ledge after 30' or so. Right Wall starts in the center of the face of this right side and ascends incuts and edges up a broken system of flakes to the right side edge of a large boulder balanced at the top ledge. One can downclimb from here on the same route, to the left on Zig-zagging Jews (5.4) or continue on. To continue onward, traverse left onto Zig-zagging Jews and proceed upward, or better yet, commit to the X-rated, vertical, face route 'Slabbery' where small but mostly positive crimps and edges wander up to the top at 5.7.
Location This is the right-most route starting from the platform-like base below the North face of Supremacy Rock. Access it from a trail going up from the road.
Protection Not much pro here, maybe a cam or a nut at some point. The landing is good, but the fall gets long near the top. Don't blow it.
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