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 ADVANCED
South Side
Routes Sorted
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B-52 T 
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First Return T 
Gemini Crack T 
Good Intentions T 
Left Up T 
Lichen or Not T 
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Rat's Ass T 
Right Up T 
Second Coming T 
Short Man's Sorrow T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Right Up 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim McEver, M. Wousey, Blair Ritter, 1974
Page Views: 1,227
Submitted By: Jeff Mekolites on Apr 23, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Jake Blanton of Louisiana leading the heady start ...

Description 

A slightly harder version of Left Up. Can be a quick fun route if things are busy at the South Face area.


Location 

Located just to the right of Left Up and just left of Stage Ledge, etc.


Protection 

Standard NC rack, runners, 1 rope. Slings on tree for rappel.



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By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Mar 14, 2008

This climb features a crux right off the deck for the first 20 ft. The landing is bad. At this point it takes a bomber stopper (about a 10-12 BD) and is pretty casual to the ledge. It's worth doing but must have your lead head on.

By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 23, 2008

There is also a 00 C3 placement that will hold a fall if you place it well. Beware that if it walks at all as you move up through the crux it can lose it's purchase.

By Joseph Brown
From: Greenville, SC
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

This route leads to an expansive ledge with bolted rap rings shared with two other popular routes, "Good Intentions" and "Left Up".

The tree mentioned in the beta is adequate for rappelling, but why stress the tree when bolts are in easy reach?

To save my ankles, I usually lead "Good Intentions" and setup a top-rope anchor on the wall just below the ledge to work the other two routes as well as variances in between.

I'll usually lower after the first 30 feet until I'm ready to clean up and move on - anything above that is just a monkey walk up the wall.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I thought this was similar difficulty to "Left Up", but it's better protected. I was able to climb easily up to a stance where I could reach up and get a bomber green BD C3, then downclimb, move to the right and climb the starting sequence with a TR. The next placement is also a bit sketchy, as you are placing somewhat blind while liebacking off the lip of the crack. I put a #3 camalot in here that seemed alright...a smaller cam might also work. After, that, the route is pretty forgettable like most of the routes on this wall.

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Oct 18, 2011

Good Climb All around. Once you pull the first couple moves of the climb you enter the danger zone, keep calm, cool and collected and set some gear as soon as possible. Once you set some pro it becomes much less terrifying for the rest of the climb.

THis is another line where a crash pad would help ease the ankles and the mind.