|Below The Old New Place
Lieback and stem up the finger crack in the corner, until the corner ends and and you're standing on the obvious pedestal looking at a steep bulge. Place good gear here, then crank a few thin moves pass this crux section, with tricky pro once you're into it, then find some easier climbing to the anchors.
This climb seems hard for the grade, with a crux that's about equally difficult to Manic Crack but not as overall sustained.
On white face right of Wailing Banshees are 2 finger cracks (the "twin cracks"). Lost Nerve is the right one of the two, which starts in a shallow left-facing corner. The arete to its right is dark, and the sport climb to its left is Manic Nirvana.
Rack of nuts and cams to 1.5", with optional doubles of finger size cams and optional 3" cam.
Angle left at the top to the 2 bolt+chain anchor for Manic Nirvana.
|Comments on Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve)
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jul 1, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I found both an extra finger/thin finger sized piece and a #3 camalot to be useful.
Fun route, with cool 5.8 laybacking to start and a nice boulder problem to finish. Would be more stars if it were more continuous.