|South Peak - West Face
Climb up the left trending ramp start for Back to the Front. From the stance where BTTF traverses right, go straight up over the roof to a slab. There is gear at the lip. Go pretty much straight up to the steep rock above aiming for a bolt which is at the crux. Above that, a small horizontal or two leads to a vertical crack finishing just left of BTTF. Build a gear anchor and descend as per BTTF.
A little history on the multiple names. We climbed it ground up after rapping it to see if it was worth doing. I was too much of a chicken to commit to the crux on lead since there was no gear to prevent smacking the slab if you blew it so I made a runout traverse right, up 6 feet then back left to the horizontals above the crux. My wife followed, climbing the crux. That winter we went back to put in a bolt at the crux on lead but, I bit off more than I reckoned by trying a direct start up the face below the ramp start to BTTF. 15 or so feet up with no pro (after finding the first horizontal to be a shallow flare), I was just about to pull up to the second horizontal when a hold blew and I pitched, bouncing off of Old Man's traverse ledge, falling 30+ feet total and breaking my foot. With no pro in the fall smashed my wife into her anchor, the tree at the top of P2 of Prune, with a side collision that drove the side of her helmet into her head splitting it open, filling her helmet with blood and dazing her. She still held the fall super solid and is my hero. After extracting ourselves from that mess which happened on a Monday in late winter with no one around, we drove to the Petersburg hospital where a foreign exchange doc/intern/whatever tried telling my wife she was suffering from an STD and not a mild concussion. I got a pink cast.
Needless to say, the bolt never got put in. Some time in the next year a guy who was guiding there bolted the crux on lead after cleaning off so much lichen you could see a streak down the wall from the parking lot and not knowing it had been climbed already gave it the name in parenthesis. So...Im not sure who really got the FA and dont really care that much but (and Im obviously biased here) I totally like our name the best since the route is Right to the Left of Back to the Front.
Start is the same as for Back to the Front off of Old Man's traverse pitch.
Standard Seneca rack will do but I enjoyed having an extra green alien/blue TCU.
|Comments on Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten )
|By Tom Cecil|
Oct 28, 2012
the route is actually called "A Thought Forgotten' but like you said --whatever...
|By Seth Murphy|
Oct 31, 2012
Actually the bolt was placed ON LEAD via a hook, by me. The route, as you said, was rapped and cleaned beforehand as to prevent a situation similar to yours. Great route nonetheless.
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Nov 2, 2012
Seth, looks like I got the wrong story. Tom, thanks for the correct other name. Note edits above and thanks for the clarification guys!