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Independence Wall
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Right To Be Wrong 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 314
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Just getting started on "Right To Be Wrong".
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route starts downhill from the tree in the gully. Belay across the gully. Crank on a hollow flake past the first bolt for a powerful start. Chase a right-facing flake then continue up the face past more cruxes, with the hardest crux at the top.


Protection 

Six bolts to a two-bolt anchor.



Photos of Right To Be Wrong Slideshow Add Photo
Right to be Wrong climbs the right side of the tree, but on the rock. It ends just right of the two horns atop.
Right to be Wrong climbs the right side of the tre...
Logan near the top of Right to be Wrong.
Logan near the top of Right to be Wrong.
Dave uses his feet to make this easier.
Dave uses his feet to make this easier.
Comments on Right To Be Wrong Add Comment
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By Walt Wehner
Oct 26, 2001

One of 5 unbelieveably bad routes that are up the hill and left of the main section of the Anarchy Wall. This route is the furthest to the right and is distinguished by lichen, bushes, loose rock, and breaking holds. The bolts appear to be safe, but the route gets an "s" for the chance of hitting your belayer with one of many big hunks of rotten rock that are waiting to come down. The climb mimics the approach gully, which is a trough of scree and small boulders. Avoid this route at all costs.

By Edward Jenner
Oct 7, 2002

Actually I thought the routes here were not too bad, and this may be the best one, but then I can't climb the stuff at Anarchy Wall. This was probably the least loose of the lot. Although I fell on the last crux, the most scary part was definitely crossing the scree slope at the bottom, I'm glad I had a belay for that!Personally I can't see how this gets an 11c, but maybe all the cleaning has made it easier.

By micah stocker
Feb 11, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a good route the belay is somewhat sketchy. This route gets some crap, but I think over all it has potential. There are some great moves just off the ground; however, I am not sure about the rating, maybe 11a/b.

By desbien
From: seattle,wa
May 8, 2006

Best route on the wall. Still very short and dirty but not nearly as chalked up as most of Clear Creek perhaps justifying a harder rating, but the moves felt 11a/b.

By mattdmonteith
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 8, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree with Walt. I climbed this on 6/8/14 (over 10 years after his post). Loose rock still fell from the route and down the gully. I left the crag with two bleeding shins caused by two separate rockslide incidents down the gully.

The climb itself is pretty fun; I agree with two stars, but because of the terrain, I would not visit this crag again. I believe the climb is closer to 5.10+/5.11-.