BETA PHOTO: Photo of Class Act next to Bong Crack.
This area encompasses the entire right wall of the Grotto. This wall has a different characteristic than the rest up the Diablo area, many of the climbs have pockets, and the crimps are more sharp and positive. The rock is less featured as well, resulting in more technical and sometimes bigger reaches between holds.
The rock, while more monolithic than the opposite side of the canyon doesn't see as much traffic. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers.
The wall is West Facing so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In the winter it gets less shade , and gets more shade in the summer. In early April the wall begins to go into the shade around 3:30. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool
The first routes are located just as you enter the Grotto. After passing the climb "Venarete" there is a short break to the next set of climbs. The next area is known as "Winter Capacity Area" as it gets the first sun on winter days. After passing through a small corridor created by a large boulder you will come across the route "Bucktooth" another short break and the wall will curve slightly yielding the routes at the end of the Grotto area.
On the right side of the grotto entrance.
Weather station 6.7 miles from here
23 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Grotto Right (West Side)
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grotto Right (West Side):
Venarete 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, 75'
Featured Route For Grotto Right (West Side)
Unnamed ArÍte (a.k.a. UNA) 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b NM
: Santa Fe Area
: ... : Grotto Right (West Side)
Challenging moves up the stellar arete. Begin on the large boulder, from where it's possible to hang the first 3 or 4 draws depending on how sweet your stick clipping skills are. Wake up your belayer and get ready to crank as the first four moves are probably the hardest. A good sidepull and a tweaky pocket lead to a slopey crimp, then steadily improving holds to a great double crimp at the 2nd bolt. Engage your imported Italian slippers and traverse out to the arete and a decent shake below...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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BETA PHOTO: Photo-Map of right side Grotto End. Courtesy of R...