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Grotto Right (West Side)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
666 S 
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 
Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 
Class Act S 
Crack Wars (aka Crack Whores) T 
Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 
In the Court of the Crimson King S 
Rickety Rock S 
Ruffles Have Ridges T 
Sin after Sin S 
Tenable S 
Trailer Park Girls S 
Tweak Fuck  S,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 
Unnamed ArÍte (a.k.a. UNA) S 
Untenable S 
Venarete S 
Where the Wild Things Aren't S 
Where the World Ends T,S 
Winter Capacity S 
Winter Warm-up T 
Woogie's Wild Ride S 

Grotto Right (West Side)  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.80532, -106.14347 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,327
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Mar 6, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

56°
Wednesday

81° | 56°
Thursday

79° | 57°
Friday

78° | 56°
Saturday

78° | 56°
Sunday

80° | 56°
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BETA PHOTO: Photo of Class Act next to Bong Crack.

Description 

This area encompasses the entire right wall of the Grotto. This wall has a different characteristic than the rest up the Diablo area, many of the climbs have pockets, and the crimps are more sharp and positive. The rock is less featured as well, resulting in more technical and sometimes bigger reaches between holds.

The rock, while more monolithic than the opposite side of the canyon doesn't see as much traffic. Climb cautiously and consider helmets and belaying (and standing) out of the fall line of climbers.

The wall is West Facing so it gets morning sun and afternoon shade. In the winter it gets less shade , and gets more shade in the summer. In early April the wall begins to go into the shade around 3:30. A good tool for estimating Sun / Shade beta is is the online sunearthtool.com estimator tool

The first routes are located just as you enter the Grotto. After passing the climb "Venarete" there is a short break to the next set of climbs. The next area is known as "Winter Capacity Area" as it gets the first sun on winter days. After passing through a small corridor created by a large boulder you will come across the route "Bucktooth" another short break and the wall will curve slightly yielding the routes at the end of the Grotto area.

Getting There 

On the right side of the grotto entrance.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.7 miles from here

23 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',8],['5.12',5],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grotto Right (West Side):
Class Act   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport   
Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch)   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Where the Wild Things Aren't   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport   
Woogie's Wild Ride   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 90'   
In the Court of the Crimson King   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Unnamed ArÍte (a.k.a. UNA)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Trailer Park Girls   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Venarete   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 75'   
Sin after Sin   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Classics in Grotto Right (West Side)

Featured Route For Grotto Right (West Side)
Ed Strang warms up on the techy arete UNA (UnNamed...

Unnamed ArÍte (a.k.a. UNA) 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Grotto Right (West Side)
Challenging moves up the stellar arete. Begin on the large boulder, from where it's possible to hang the first 3 or 4 draws depending on how sweet your stick clipping skills are. Wake up your belayer and get ready to crank as the first four moves are probably the hardest. A good sidepull and a tweaky pocket lead to a slopey crimp, then steadily improving holds to a great double crimp at the 2nd bolt. Engage your imported Italian slippers and traverse out to the arete and a decent shake below...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Grotto Right (West Side) Slideshow Add Photo
Photo-Map of right side Grotto End.  Courtesy of R...
BETA PHOTO: Photo-Map of right side Grotto End. Courtesy of R...

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