Login with Facebook
Trashcan Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Butterfly Crack T 
Filch T 
Filth T 
Gripper Traverse 
Hermanutic T 
Left Sawdust Crack T 
Mr. Freeze 
Right Sawdust Crack T 
Wallaby Crack T 

Right Sawdust Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,274
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Jan 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A tad short, but a fun route!


Starts at the right end of the East Face of Trashcan Rock, facing the road and at the back of a small cove of rock. The very rightmost crack, just a few feet left of Left Sawdust Crack. A short, clean hand crack on good rock but a little meat-tenderizer inside. Not too bad though. Leans a little left and is a touch awkward for the grade but nothing to worry about. Not terribly memorable but a good warmup if you're in the area.


Hand sized, same for anchor.

Photos of Right Sawdust Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Right Sawdust Crack
Right Sawdust Crack

Comments on Right Sawdust Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

Not that great.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2008

Nice crack, good rock, but only about a bodylength of climbing in the handcrack. Even by Josh standards it's way, way too short. Secure locker jams for the solo. Kind of like a miniature version of Gem, complete with extra coarse rock.
By Jonathan Bent
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Perhaps this just emphasizes the fact that I'm not 100% on my crack footwork, but I found this very hard for the grade, especially the first few feet of slight overhang. If you're absolutely secure on crack, though, it's one of the purest hand/fist cracks I've seen the the park, albeit short. Heard others say they had had a lot of trouble with it, also.
By KraigP
Nov 19, 2008

I liked it! Very easy with solid footwork and hand placement. I give a solid 2 stars as its too short for anymore stars. But it's a good warm up lead and a good lead for someone trying to learn how to place gear on a little bit harder crack. I suggest this route.
By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Nov 28, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The crack itself is very solid with straightforward jams, though I found it pretty pumpy to place pro, partly due to the steepness & the slanting orientation of the crack. It makes for a great downclimb as well - especially after TR'ing Left Sawdust Crack.
By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 5, 2012

Not a bad little route, but it is a brutal little affair!
By brian burke
From: la, ca
Mar 11, 2014

i climbed this route. my hands hurt now.
By dnaiscool
Apr 18, 2015

Grit-fest POS...You want a cool 5.8 crack, do Sail Away.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!