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Left Hand of Darkness - E. Face
Routes Sorted
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Aleister Crowley (aka Brew 102) T 
Bryant Gumbel T 
Grandpa Gander T 
Granny Goose T 
Jane Pauley T 
Jon Crowley T 
Left Route T 
Middle Hand of Darkness T,TR 
Mother Goose T 
Pump Up the Volume T 
Right Route T 
Stake Your Claim T 
To Air Is Human T 
Uncle Fester T 
Whistling Sphincter TR 

Right Route 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey 1978, FA Direct: (TR) unknown 1979
Page Views: 237
Submitted By: Blitzo on Mar 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Right Route. Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This is on the separate, left section of the crag.
Start on the right side, move up and left to the crack. Move left at the roof, then up to where moves can be made right, to the crack. Follow it to the top.
The direct route is 5.11c, top rope.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Comments on Right Route Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Nov 20, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought this route was great! Some spice down low, with some very thin moves up to and left under the roof. The only thing keeping you off the ground here is a #0 TCU below your feet. Above this, some fun steep jamming and jugs lead to the top. Well worth a visit if you're in the area or looking for something new.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Apr 14, 2014

Instead of coming in from the right, go up the thin seam for some added hard moves... how hard? Good question. 5.10+ or so? Pro would be real thin on lead. I've always been a TR hero every time I've been over there.

The direct direct 11c way above the roof is silly hard. I'm saying something has broken above the roof. It's desperate and this time out, a demoralizing shut down for me. We used to call the direct direct The Middle Hand of Darkness. (in fact, I'll add it as a route right now...)