Type: Trad, Sport, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,831 total · 29/month
Shared By: ClimbPHX.com on Aug 9, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Good solid rock past two bolts to first pitch crux - a semi off-width chimney easily protected.
Second pitch is short past two bolts and great belay station.
Third pitch goes across the chasm to the left and up the obvious Y-shaped crack above.
Move across the ramp leading up - you can sling the horn and then up two moves to the top anchors.

Location Suggest change

First obvious climb at the base of the tower

Protection Suggest change

P1: The first bolt is 20 feet up (spicy!) over a giant flake and up an easy slab. It is a good idea to anchor in your belayer as there is a 30-foot slide below the start of the climb. The tree on the left works well for this (especially if you have a 240cm sling). The starting flake is solid far down, but about to break near the top. Do not step on the top. After three (not two) bolts on the low-angle face you get to the roof crux. The horizontal crack below the crux will take a #5. A small crack inside of the off-width crux will take a #2, but if you fall you are hitting the slab below. There are no bolts to protect the crux or after it. After the crux, cracks will take two #1's until you get to the bolted anchors at a king-sized ledge. Clove-hitch into your quad and leave about 10 feet of rope if you want to be able to see your followers.

P2: Pitches two and three can easily be linked with a 60m rope IF you have at least 4 x 60cm alpine draws, two 120cm alpine draws, and are good at managing rope drag. P2 begins with a move that is difficult (for the route) up and out of the ledge (can be protected with .5 or smaller), along a crack, and up a slab past two bolts. Move past the first anchors you see (that is a rap station) and onto the GIANT ledge with bolted anchors. This is the end of P2. Use an alpine draw with a 120cm sling on the anchor (this is CRITICAL for making rope drag manageable), if you are linking P2 and P3. You may want to use lockers on this sling because from here you must jump the narrow chasm to begin P3.

P3: There are no bolts on P3, but the y cracks eat up gear from .5 to #5 (towards the top the left crack is more difficult than the right). Continue up the cracks until you get to the horizontal crack at the base of the final summit slab. This crack will take a #5 and a #6. Make sure you save at least one of these pieces for this last placement because there is absolutely no protection after you place this final piece. From here it is 25 feet of slab to the summit where there are bolted anchors and rap rings (again going left is a bit more difficult than going right). Again, please use slings liberally if linking pitches 2 and 3.

Pro: C4 .4 to #5 (#6 optional). Compliment with nuts of all sizes.

Photos

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