|Sven Tower 3
Good solid rock past two bolts to first pitch crux - a semi off-width chimney easily protected.
Second pitch is short past two bolts and great belay station.
Third pitch goes across the chasm to the left and up the obvious Y-shaped crack above.
Move across the ramp leading up - you can sling the horn and then up two moves to the top anchors.
First obvious climb at the base of the tower
Bolts, Mixed gear
Ann seconding past the crux on pitch one, near the...
BETA PHOTO: Third Pitch - Notice the Y Crack - Great pro and r...
BETA PHOTO: Side shot of the route...from trail saddle at trai...
BETA PHOTO: Pic from the bottom of the climb looking up
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the bottom
From: Mesa AZ
Aug 11, 2010
As written in old guide :
1. Low Angle wide arete Face 2 pitches 2 bolt anchor at 35 m 2 bolt anchor on top
2. From Basin at top of routes 1 and 3, head to top of formation with 1 bolt off the deck and Pro to the top. 2 bolt anchor. 5.6 if you start right and use easiest line.
|By Ted Smith|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Sep 27, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
This route can be easily done in two pitches with a 60 meter rope counting the crack section that runs to the top of Sven Tower III. The lower long pitch is the money pitch, with little thrill to the top section from my pov. The slightly overhung off-width roof (shown in the picture) is the crux, but can be climbed without using off-width technique. Actually, a good lead to get experience on mixed trad and sport, but might be a bit intimidating at the crux.