Right of Round the Corner  WI4 M2

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice Consensus:  WI4- M2- [details] FA:  unknown Season:  winter Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Dec 30, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: In fatter conditions...the ice, that is.

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Description 

This, is a fun, funky route that looks less steep and less interesting than it is. It may be just a variation. I don't know its name. So, for now, we'll call it Right of Round the Corner. It is left of The Plumb.

3 starts are possible: left in a corner, up verglas in middle of slab. Right in a gully/groove. A #1 Friend at base of slab can help. #1/2 Friend is useful on R. #0.75 Camalot useful on left. The steep bit can require stubbies. This has delicate ice and a nice belay ice ledge. You can use a short bugaboo to back up ice belay or go right to root/angle/jammed knots/1 link belay/rap point.

Rap 100' to ground.

Protection 

#1/2 to 1 Friends useful on rock start, medium screws and 2-3 stubbies. A small bugaboo can backup the belay.

Toprope Protection 

There is an anchor to the right with slings around a root backed up to an angle and jammed knots. Might be tough to get to unless led.

Approach 

Probably an hour. Expect 1000' of gain.

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BETA PHOTO: 1-15-2012 - Right of Round the Corner from its bas...