|Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch
This, is a fun, funky route that looks less steep and less interesting than it is. It may be just a variation. I don't know its name. So, for now, we'll call it Right of Round the Corner. It is left of The Plumb.
3 starts are possible: left in a corner, up verglas in middle of slab. Right in a gully/groove. A #1 Friend at base of slab can help. #1/2 Friend is useful on R. #0.75 Camalot useful on left. The steep bit can require stubbies. This has delicate ice and a nice belay ice ledge. You can use a short bugaboo to back up ice belay or go right to root/angle/jammed knots/1 link belay/rap point.
Rap 100' to ground.
#1/2 to 1 Friends useful on rock start, medium screws and 2-3 stubbies. A small bugaboo can backup the belay.
There is an anchor to the right with slings around a root backed up to an angle and jammed knots. Might be tough to get to unless led.
Probably an hour. Expect 1000' of gain.
BETA PHOTO: 1-15-2012 - Right of Round the Corner from its bas...
|By Dr. Evil|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2007
Please be aware that an ice dam can form on this route.
When we climbed this route on 1/20/06, I broke an ice dam. The route was in very fat - it was ice only, about WI3. The dam was on the low-angle bench just before the final ice step. While leading the upper step, I broke off piece of ice. When the ice landed on the flatter section it broke the dam. A sheet of ice about 5 feet by 10 feet wide and 1 foot deep exploded off the (climber's) right side of the climb, just below the rock section of The Plumb. Water loudly gushed out of the hole for a couple minutes. It was impressive.
Since I was above the dam and my belayer was down and left, neither of us was in danger.