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 ADVANCED
Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chimney T 
Crown of Thorns T 
Fish Out of Water 
Holy Grail S 
Plumb, The T 
Right of Round the Corner T 
Round the Corner T 
Shroud, The T 
Sneaky 1 T 
Spectre T 
Three Tiers T 
Tony's Nightmare T 
Tres Amigos T 
Unnamed Gully T 
Upper Tiers T 
Unsorted Routes:

Right of Round the Corner 

WI4 M2

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice
Consensus: WI4 M2 [details]
FA: unknown
Season: winter
Page Views: 1,760
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 30, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: In fatter conditions...the ice, that is.

Description 

This, is a fun, funky route that looks less steep and less interesting than it is. It may be just a variation. I don't know its name. So, for now, we'll call it Right of Round the Corner. It is left of The Plumb.

3 starts are possible: left in a corner, up verglas in middle of slab. Right in a gully/groove. A #1 Friend at base of slab can help. #1/2 Friend is useful on R. #0.75 Camalot useful on left. The steep bit can require stubbies. This has delicate ice and a nice belay ice ledge. You can use a short bugaboo to back up ice belay or go right to root/angle/jammed knots/1 link belay/rap point.

Rap 100' to ground.


Protection 

#1/2 to 1 Friends useful on rock start, medium screws and 2-3 stubbies. A small bugaboo can backup the belay.


Toprope Protection 

There is an anchor to the right with slings around a root backed up to an angle and jammed knots. Might be tough to get to unless led.


Approach 

Probably an hour. Expect 1000' of gain.



Photos of Right of Round the Corner Slideshow Add Photo
1-15-2012 - Right of Round the Corner from its base. In addition to the belay anchors noted in description, a good tree exists out of sight above the 4th class rock band. 30m rap with rope stretch.
BETA PHOTO: 1-15-2012 - Right of Round the Corner from its bas...
Comments on Right of Round the Corner Add Comment
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By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2007

Please be aware that an ice dam can form on this route.

When we climbed this route on 1/20/06, I broke an ice dam. The route was in very fat - it was ice only, about WI3. The dam was on the low-angle bench just before the final ice step. While leading the upper step, I broke off piece of ice. When the ice landed on the flatter section it broke the dam. A sheet of ice about 5 feet by 10 feet wide and 1 foot deep exploded off the (climber's) right side of the climb, just below the rock section of The Plumb. Water loudly gushed out of the hole for a couple minutes. It was impressive.

Since I was above the dam and my belayer was down and left, neither of us was in danger.