Along the base of the tilted tower are three short cracks that lead to a ledge about 30 feet up. This is the right most crack, and the widest of the three. The start is awkward, and takes large pro right off the ground. The climbing eases a little at the top as the crack narrows. Any of these three cracks can be used to climb to the start of Middle Dihedral or Village Idiot.
Medium to large cams.
|By Larry Shaw|
Aug 20, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The far left crack was an offwidth, the second from the left was a hand crack and the funnist of all the climbs, the right one was another offwidth that was ok. Good place to practice your crack climbing skills.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jun 29, 2007
I found the middle crack just the right size for my hands. In fact, that was some of the most secure fitting hand crack in they canyon I have found yet.
To continue your pitch, you can move to the right after surmounting the ledge and go up a slab with a crack in a dihedral. Keep far right or head straight up as the crack curves to the right and summit the block and belay at a two bolt anchor. Full length pitch.
|By Chris Grosshans|
Jun 7, 2010
The middle crack took #2 and #3 Camalots (yellow + blue). The ledge at the top of the crack does not have a rap station. You can climb middle dihedral and use that route's station.