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McHenry's Peak
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Big Mac Couloir 
McHenry's Notch Couloir 
Right Gully T 
Snow Bench (McHenry's Peak) 

Right Gully 

WI4 M4 A1 Mod. Snow

Type:  Trad, Aid, Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus: WI4 M4 A1 [details]
FA: Joe Kaelin & party
Page Views: 2,295
Submitted By: Caelan on Nov 11, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: McHenry's Peak - East Face: 9 Nov 07


This has ~3 pitches of rock/mixed, 1 or 2 pitches of ice. Zig-zag up some mixed/snow ramps, bust left to meet up with the Big Mac Couloir at the top of the buttress, and then aid up the Headwall (A1) or escape to the right (4th class).


This route goes up the right side of the prominent buttress on the east face of McHenry's Peak.


Mixed alpine rack: (Single set of cams +/-, full set of passive gear, pitons, and ~7 ice screws and lots of long slings maybe?).

Photos of Right Gully Slideshow Add Photo
First pitch of Right Gully.
First pitch of Right Gully.
This is the line my partner and I took. The belays...
BETA PHOTO: This is the line my partner and I took. The belays...
Gil leading typical mixed snow and rock terrain.
Gil leading typical mixed snow and rock terrain.

Comments on Right Gully Add Comment
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By eric harvey
Nov 12, 2007

The guidebook says to climb up snow bench for a while and traverse right. TOTAL CRAP. Maybe that traverse has been done with no snow, but it looks spicy with much snow cover. Instead climb two enjoyable pitches of 5.8ish rock (hard to judge in boots) through the cliffs at the base of Right Gully. From there one can cruise.

2 pitches of rock to ice (5.8)
1 pitch of ice (200 feet)
Mellow solo for the rest (M1?)

Time for spray: Lollygagging, it took 15 hours car to car.
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Nov 2, 2011


Some photos from an early season attempt last winter.
By Gil Weiss
Feb 22, 2012

c2c linkup of West Gully and Right Gully. F'n Classic!

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