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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Criller AKA Dwayne and Craig's Exellent Adventures T,TR 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Good Mourning T,TR 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strata Outta Compton T 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T,TR 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Right Escape 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: M. Schlauch, C. Ruckgaber, E. Johnson. 2001
Season: spring, fall
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Jun 6, 2013

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a worthwhile and enjoyable climb with interesting and varied climbing and a little spice.

Climb the weakness down low for 40' to access a ledge system with some tottering choss below the obvious, left-facing flake. Negotiate through the choss past flakes and back to good rock via cracks to fun laybacking up the flake. At the top of the flake, pull the overlap up and right following a finger crack. This is exciting exposed climbing that is somewhat sustained and tricky to protect at first. It is jalapeņo spicy, maybe more PG than PG-13? Fun continually interesting climbing up and right takes you to the anchors on Peanuts. There is quite a bit of lichen, since this is not well-trodden, but it is well worthwhile and recommended if you are in the area and/or enjoy the road less traveled.

Location 

This route is a variation to Left Side (10 R), which climbs the obvious flake forming a left-facing corner with a wide slot, right of The Shield. Atop the flake where Left Side traverses left, surmount the overlap via a finger crack and move up and left across the face to the anchors on Peanuts.

Protection 

Standard Eldo rack, maybe extra finger-size. Levin says to 3" with optional 4", but the wide flake has small pieces in the back, and I never wanted anything larger than a #2 Camalot.


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