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Right Edge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Steve McCorkel, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 881
Submitted By: Paul Heyliger on Nov 27, 2008

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Description 

P1. Climb up the groove (Superlight Rocks/small brass and tiny Aliens/cams) past the crux (5.6) to the horn. Move up easier rock (more tiny gear) to a ledge. Place a 0.75 Camalot and take the slab right of the tree in the obvious corner (the seams take good Aliens and SL rocks) to a nice ledge (1 and 3 Camalots).

P2. There is a nice looking but short (6-foot) finger crack on the left. Take this (5.5, perfect stoppers) to easier climbing up the groove with good Aliens in undercling flakes. Continue up, move left on a flake hand traverse (large stopper thread) then up on low 5th class to the top.

Location 

Start on the far right side of the slab, just right/above a tree and right before the wall turns to overhanging choss. There is a moderately attractive grove with a visible horn.

Protection 

Standard trad rack heavy on the smaller cams and brass. You could probably do this route in 1 pitch, but with the noise of the river and really nice belay ledge it is more convenient to split it.


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By morkel
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 28, 2009

Yes, locals, about 8 years ago.