Right Crack  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Tony B on May 15, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>> The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July: Ridge Two Ridge Three Ridge Four Achaen Prnouncement Back Porch Argonaut Dreadnought North Ridge Bear Creek Spire Details. All East Face routes on the following formations are closed 1 April to 1 October (routes on the North, South & West Faces remain open): The Hand Mallory Flatironette Shark's Fin Finger Flatiron The following routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September: Sunnyside One East Face Left East Face Right Details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Flatirons Climbing Council Preserving climbing access in the Flatirons

Description 

This route is pretty fun and the moves are unique and position really cool, but it needs more traffic. With more traffic or even a good old-fashion brush-down, it would be 2 stars. At present, it is worth doing, but not a destination climb.

Approach the NW corner of the Finger Flatiron. You will see some free-standing flakes rising out of the ground near that corner- from there a right-leaning crack (hand-to-fist) goes up and right below a massive roof, to a 2-3" crack at the lip of the roof, at its narrowest point, about 1/2 meter.Climb up this system protecting on a few fist-sized cams and whatever else you can fidget in (5.8). We cleaned a small fixed nut that was surprisingly well placed and seemed good. Turn the roof (5.7) at a solid cam placement and get established above the roof (5.8) and fidget in some gear. Proceed left on a tiny foot ramp (5.8+) or right and up (5.8+) either way a little balancy and above gear at times, but without any dangerous fall potential if you place what is available. The straight-up option goes directly to a rap anchor, but passes some potentially dangerous loose rocks-beware.

The rap anchor above "Nude Figures" (to the south) was re-enforced for the second time in as many years and seems solid. The anchor directly above this climb was total crap, save one piece of cordalette. I removed 3 pieces of webbing that were already 100% severed or chewed through, and one that was brittle and 60% chewed through. This anchor needs one more good piece and more of the crap removed. I ran out for the day after replacing other anchors. If you do the climb, please attend to this. And beware- there is a nylon loving critter up there trying to kill off inattentive climbers.

Protection 

A light standard rack. If you like to sew it up, take an extra #3-3.5 Camalot or a 4" piece.