2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The right crack of the routes located just around the corner and uphill (to the east) of the buttress with Huston Crack and Aid Crack at Cob Rock. This one climbs a short left-facing dihedral to a slabby offwidth/fist crack. This is actually a very good climb to practice offwidth techniques on, and quite fun. But there's no anchor, so the walkoff reduces its appeal. Seldom climbed, but worthwhile.
Set of cams, heavy on fists/big stuff (#3 and #4 Camalots are good).
Definitely 5.6. The offwidth sections don't take #3 Camalots (didn't bring any 4s, but those should work). But, there's a hand crack to the right that does take normal gear (probably 5.6 also). Slap some gear in that crack, climb down a bit, and practice those arm bars! From the top, follow a very loose path up to the left and rap from a tree. Leave a TR anchor and do the dirty, parallel finger cracks that follow the rap line (5.10?).
There are slings on a tree around the left corner for a 60 foot rappel.
By Top Rope Hero From: Was Estes Park, now homeless Jul 17, 2011 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
The rap station has great slings but only one, razor thin aluminum ring. Wouldn't hang my doubts on that dog. Somebody PLEASE invest some damn pocket change and back that shit show up with a lock link.
(IIIII will if'n I ever do that side of CR again....)