You will want to find a good way up the wall to your left. Once you reach the notch, we found it easiest to go up to the left of the prominent chimney. The chimney might be a good alternative, but it was iced up when we climbed it in late May. We free-soloed the way up but down climbed while being roped in for the descent do to loose rock. With good route finding, you should be able to find a way up without exceeding 5.3 or so. Again, watch for loose rock. Glissade back to the road.
From the top of Boren Creek basin, head right up the scree field, aiming for the right most couloir. In early season (earlier than July), most of the couloir could be covered in snow so an ice axe and crampons are recommended. Once you reach the notch, Babcock Peak will be on your left and Middle Babcock will be on you right with a cool looking pinnacle directly in front of you.
Helmet, rack of stoppers, and a 30 meter rope. There is a sling at the top to assist in the descent.
Thad approaching Babcock Peak. The technical climb...
The pinnacle just north of Middle Babcock.
Conditions on May 2, 2009 during a snow storm.
Tom Willis crossing avalanche field.