Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in The Three Penguins
|
Anorexia T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
Greater Wrong of the Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
|
Petrified Bear's Dick 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2 |
|
Right Chimney T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Michael Kennedy & Molly Higgins - 1976 |
| Page Views: | 13,658 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Apr 18, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is pretty darn good, especially if you like off-widths.
Approach up talus and across a ledge system from the right of the formation. Head around the base to the left - this is the first crack system in a dihedral you come to. The first pitch of the route basically starts at fingers and works its way to fists - the crux being getting over the obvious bulge. Belay at fixed anchors 2/3 the way up the tower. The last third of the tower is a delightful struggle up a flaring off-width - the definite crux of the route. "Chimney" is a misnomer for this thing, the only thing I could squeeze in there were chicken wings and knees.
Two ropes gets you completely off the route, but it looked feasible to do it in two, single rope rappels.
Approach up talus and across a ledge system from the right of the formation. Head around the base to the left - this is the first crack system in a dihedral you come to. The first pitch of the route basically starts at fingers and works its way to fists - the crux being getting over the obvious bulge. Belay at fixed anchors 2/3 the way up the tower. The last third of the tower is a delightful struggle up a flaring off-width - the definite crux of the route. "Chimney" is a misnomer for this thing, the only thing I could squeeze in there were chicken wings and knees.
Two ropes gets you completely off the route, but it looked feasible to do it in two, single rope rappels.
22 Comments