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Allen about 1/2 way up.
This is an obvious line on the East side of The Thumb. It does receive a star in Gillett's but not Rossiter's guidebook. Not too bad when you're trying to squeeze in something between downpours. You can do this in 1 or 2 pitches; however, the 2-bolt anchor depicted in Rossiter's guide seems to be gone.
From the trail's junction with The Thumb, head right about 50 feet. Look up & see a right-angling, right-facing, obtuse dihedral with blackish lichen (a touch slippery when wet). This is the line. Start up face moves to a short, left-facing dihedral with a fixed orange TCU. The start probably warrants a PG-13. The crux of the route is likely the movement out of this dihedral onto face holds up & right. Continue up past a pin (no bolts to be seen), follow the right-facing corner up, pass another pin. At about 100 feet up, you can move left about 12 feet to a 2 bolt anchor or you can continue to the top.
From the top, you can move above the slabby West face, drop down (with a belay), and find a set of slings threaded through a constriction. Rap 95'. Or you can downclimb to Brace Y'self aka Pin Route's anchor & rappel.
This is located on the E side of the Thumb, about 50 ft up & R from where the trail meets the rock.
Wires, Aliens to #2 Camalot. 60m rope useful.
BETA PHOTO: The line I chose. Small red Xs are gear placements...
May 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 PG13
I had problems with massive rope drag doing this in 1 pitch - and that was with generous slings used down low. It's easy to miss the "anchor 12 feet to the left" - as I did, and the only suitable crack for building a belay - a wide 1"-4" crack - isn't found til topping out.
This long 170' pitch could probably use a good mid-pitch bolted belay station in the slabby mid-part of the climb. If I had expertise in this, I'd go do it myself.
|By Greg Speer|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.7 PG13
Ditto on the need for a mid route bolted belay station. We managed a less than optimal belay there. Otherwise, a very enjoyable climb.