|SW Face Right (Monkey Business Wall)
This horizontal route can easily be seen when walking towards the southwest end of Little Hunk from Echo Rock. The route starts on a sandy (be careful) ledge below two closely spaced roof climbs on the wall's right hand side (Roofing Company & Monkey Business). Climb left about 15 feet until the moves pull you up 6 feet and then continue left on large holds to a thinner finish at a chain belay next to a shrub oak. CAUTION: The Vogel guide has the picture wrong on page 251. It shows the climb going straight left from the start. This would be much harder 5.10+? and not take you to the anchors, which are not where pictured either.
Standard J-Tree rack and remember to place gear for the second!! Also, it would be wise to anchor the belayer at the start of the route.
|Comments on Right Between the Eyes
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 16, 2007
I wish I had read the description of this route on MP before going off to do this route. I based my knowledge of the route strictly on the old Vogel guide photo. After a few moves I found myself in not so comfortable territory. I creeped along the horizontal crack twice and retreated back to my last piece in a 3" slot. Ultimately I backed off all together unwilling to make the move.
My partner lead through and lead up from my last piece on large chicken heads and to a different crack system moving left over large holds and good feet and reaching the chain anchors just right of a scrub bush.
Don't pay attention to the topo in the Vogel guide. Start on the large sandy ledge and move left 'til you hit your first vertical crack, pro there moving up and left on large holds. This route does take good pro and is very enjoyable.
|By Russ Walling|
Feb 16, 2007
Good route for the grade and you can go to the anchors (chains) and then get lowered to belay the second from the ground.
From: Palm Desert, CA
Apr 7, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Great route and a fun lead. Glad to have the MP beta and not Vogel as noted above. Did not move up at the first vertical crack... Whoa momma! That was interesting! We opted to belay from the ground far right instead of the ledge so that we could keep a visual. This route is a must do, IMHO, if you're in the area and looking for something totally different.
|By Nathan Scherneck|
From: Portland, OR
Nov 6, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Agreed. Don't miss this one. Reminded me of the traverse on Mars Attacks in Sedona. The hand holds become more secure as the feet thin.
Mar 18, 2013
Back in 1992, with Vogel's difinitive 1992 guide hot off the press and in my hands, I went to climb this route. Somehow, I got off course and ended up climbing the straight up crack in the middle of the wall. It was sort of a flaring crack/open book type feature. My gear was sketchy (prolly just had hexes and wires), the rock was scabby and rotten, and I was mortified. Whether this was an FA or not, who knows, but I wouldn't recomment it to my worst enemy. Maybe 5.8 or 5.9