Right Banana Crack 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Jon Lonne, Dave Ohlson, and Martin McBirney, April 1976 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Jul 31, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: "Right Banana Crack" follows the right-hand crack ...
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Description The Banana Cracks can be a good place to climb on a cold day, as the formation somewhat blocks out the wind. The formation comes into the sun by late morning. The Right Banana Crack was one of the hardest routes in the 1977 guidebook. It is an exciting lieback and hand crack, with great protection.
Location The Banana Cracks are unmistakable. They are about four feet apart at the start, and then diverge as the right one arches out under a roof. Scramble up from the left to get to the large ledge at the base of the cracks.
Protection Gear to 4 inches
Right Banana Crack
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Right Banana Crack
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| Comments on Right Banana Crack |
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By Nate R
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 21, 2008
rating: 5.11b
| You don't really need gear to 4 inches. A single #3 camalot works fine. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 23, 2008
rating: 5.11b
| Sweet crack climbing to a burly crux. I ended up cranking on a fist jam to get through it (after a fair number of falls). My buddy did it without the fist jam and instead used crimps out left. YMMV.
A #3.5 camalot went in perfectly just below the crux. You could probably get by with a #3 instead. A #4 would fit in the wide spot right at the crux, but it would be pretty fricken hard to stop and place gear through that section!
When combined with Left Banana Crack, this makes for a great, shady morning spot. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 2, 2011
| Rowdy handcrack! Kick ass! |
By JaredVagy
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Mar 6, 2012
| Climbed it on March 3, 2012 and the cams at the crux were messy and annoying (although they served as a good excuse for me not sending the route). Thanks for cleaning them! How were you able to clean them? They were pretty well in there... |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 6, 2012
| Thanks for cleaning them! How were you able to clean them? They were pretty well in there...
They we absolutely welded in there. I used secret tools and techniques to free them. Took a while though even with the advanced techniques. They will both need some work to ever function again. Both were #1 Camalots. |
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 6, 2012
| I hope you used some secret tools to put in a bolt at that lip to prevent future cam loss. |
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 6, 2012
| I don't think it needs a bolt there as the epoxied #6 hex is still holding nicely. I'll watch it though. |
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Mar 7, 2012
| thank you, Russ! awesome of you. |
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