Mont Rigaud is a high quality pink granite cliff which contains over 70 bolted sport routes. Climbs are between 5.2-5.13, with a healthy dose in the 5.6-5.12 range. Heights are typically 10-15 meters.
Sun comes around late morning to early afternoon and there are enough scattered trees which provide shade in the summer months.
Weekdays you'll find climbers coming after work for an evening workout, weekends on the other hand can get crowded on the easy to moderate routes. The base is clean of brush and there is plenty of room along the the entire length of the cliff to belay climbers, lay down your equipment and to gather and talk. Climbers bringing children and or dogs are not uncommon.
A central gully .
The most popular wall are:
Bob's Wall - a couple of excellent routes
Main Wall - High quality moderates
Gully Wall - provides easy top rope access for all the walls.
STD Wall - Steepest wall and some of the hardest climbs
Rigaud is a small town just off A40 [Trans -Canada] near the Quebec-Ontario border, 60km west of Montreal take exit #12 and 120km east of Ottawa take exit #9. Head into the center of town and follow the signs for Centre de ski Rigaud (about 3-4 km).
If coming from the south, route 325 goes right to the location.
The ski hill owner is kind enough to allow parking at the ski hill. Park at the smaller MTB parking lot just to the left of the main lot. The main lot closes in the late afternoon, so if you are planning to stay past 4:00 don't park here or you'll get locked in!. Parking is also allowed on the side of the road 300 meters past the ski area, just past the three way stop beside the farmers fields on Chemin du Petit Brűlé. Don't park at the farmer's gate but just past it.
Once at the ski area parking lot the cliff should be visible on the upper left side when looking up the ski hills. Take a foot path up the furthest left ski trail [L'Express]. When that trail splits take the left trail again [La Falaise]. Once this trail starts to cut right, a path through the woods should be visible on the left [look for a flat rock]. Keep hiking up and left, you are sure to hit the cliff somewhere. Trail in woods is only about 200m. The
entire walk from parking area to cliff face takes 10-15 minutes.
If you can't find the wooded trail or want to keep it simple, you can continue up the ski run until the cliff becomes visible through the trees on your left, then just turn left to cliff.
The entire area is on PRIVATE PROPERTY! The land owners seem to tolerate climbers, hopefully this attitude will continue, please treat the area with respect !
Please... Most of the entire climbing area is covered with dry pine needles in the summer.
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRES OR CAMPING ALLOWED.
Area Order: left to right
79 Total Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',2]
Browse More Classics in Mont Rigaud
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mont Rigaud:
Featured Route For Mont Rigaud
Next Step 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b North America
: ... : Main Wall
Start in the middle of a blank wall to the right of a very high bolt. Make hard face move up a thin face to a high first bolt. Make the crux move to the second bolt, then climb left to a spot under roof/corner. Turn corner to the right and finish on positive holds straight up. Stick clip or a good spotter.It's possible to come in from Killer Bunnies and clip the first bolt with the right hand but if you continue the route is bumped down to 5.9 ....[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Top rope wall, three routes are between the climb...
BETA PHOTO: Trail to cliff face is 75 meters to the left of he...
No routes in here yet, some potential
Rigaud .... Climbers park left side inside inline ...
Parking area at base of Rigaud, cliff face is up o...
Closer look of wall at Raspberry route, between th...
View from top of Bonnie Wall looking down at the s...
STD wall ...., short routes above ledge.
Unclimbed section on left
At Upper Gully/ Bonnies wall looking out towards s...
BETA PHOTO: Rigaud Topo
Jun 7, 2012
Why is everything rated R or PG13 at this sport crag? Are the bolts really that spaced?
|By Ian Dibbs|
Jun 22, 2012
Some of the routes have bolt spacing that could result in a nasty fall ... especially when clipping or the first bolt starts high. Thought I would rate safety on the conservative side.
|By Ian Dibbs|
Sep 9, 2012
Just let me know the correct route names and I'll be happy to change them. I got the names from rockclimbng.com.