Parking area at base of Rigaud, cliff face is up o...
Rigaud is a single 800 foot long cliff face on the side on a small ski resort (Mount Rigaud), which contains about 50 bolted sport routes. Climbs are between 5.2- 5.12d, with a variety of "moderate" boted 5.6-5.9 as well as a lot of bolted 5.10a-5.12b routes. Heights are typicaly 35-50 feet on fine granite.Sun comes around late morning to early afternoon and there are enough scattered trees which provide shade at base level.There is a central gully which provides easy top access for top-ropers. Lower section below the gully has the moderate bolted routes, 5.5-5.9 mostly. Past the gully are the tougher routes including at least 20 5.10-5.12 bolted climbs. Routes past the gully are usually shorter, typically 20-25 feet.
The area is property of the ski company (runs zip lines in the summer) but climbers seem to be well tolerated. There is the ski area parking lot but, it is LOCKED and Closed at either 6:00, or 4:00 (check sign at entrance).
Typicaly 1-4 groups on weekday days, some come after work for evening weekday climbs, weekends often have 8-12 groups (usually from Montreal) which is about all the area can comfortably handle.
There is plenty of room along the the entire length of the cliff base to; easily belay climbers, lay down your equipment, and to gather and talk.Climbers bringing children and or dogs are not uncommon.
There are at least 45 bolted routes over the entire face, which must have names. If you know the proper name or, if I need to be corrected just leave a comment.
Rigaud is a small town near the Ontario-Quebec border accessed by highway 417, 120 KM east from Ottawa, or route #40, 75 KM west from Montreal. If coming from the south, highway #325 goes right to the location. If taking the 417/40 get off at exit 9 (Rigaud exit) and go through the town and follow the signs to the ski area (about 5 km).
If you are planning to stay past 4:00 don't park in the main parking lot(or you'll get locked in!), parking is tolerated on the side of the road 200 meters past the ski area, just past the three way stop at the corner of highway 325 and Erables beside the farmers fields.
Once at the ski area parking lot the cliff should be visible on the upper left side when looking up the ski hills.Take the a foot trail on the furthest left ski hill from the base of the parking area (left side of chairlift) along an obvious trail up the ski run. Half way up when the ski trail forks right,you cut into the woods on a small trail. Keep going up and left and you are sure to hit the cliff somewhere. Trail in woods is only about 300M, entire walk from parking area to cliff face takes 10-15 minutes.If you can't find the trail or want to keep it simple,you can continue up the ski run until the cliff becomes visible through the trees on your left, then just turn left to cliff.
Please...Most of the entire climbing area is covered with dry pine needles in the summer. No fires please. I had call the fire department after finding a slowing creeping fire from a bonfire which had not been put out and abandoned.
This area IS NOT public land, owners seem to tolerate climbers, hopefully this attitude will continue, please treat the area with respect !
Browse More Classics in Rigaud
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rigaud:
Featured Route For Rigaud
BETA PHOTO: Trail to cliff face is 75 meters to the left of he...
Rigaud .... Climbers park left side inside inline ...
View from cliff top.
View from top of Bonnie Wall looking down at the s...
Jun 7, 2012
Why is everything rated R or PG13 at this sport crag? Are the bolts really that spaced?
|By Ian Dibbs|
Jun 22, 2012
Some of the routes have bolt spacing that could result in a nasty fall ... especially when clipping or the first bolt starts high. Thought I would rate safety on the conservative side.
Aug 31, 2012
thomas the routes are mostly all bolted good except for the older classics !
Ian i must point out you got most of the names wrong !! I know this because i bolted a third of the climbs here ! i will try to correct them !
Aug 31, 2012
Ian thanks for doing all this work i am no good with computers rather bolt !!!!
|By Ian Dibbs|
Sep 9, 2012
Just let me know the correct route names and I'll be happy to change them. I got the names from rockclimbng.com.