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Mont Rigaud
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Bob's Wall 
Elephant Cave  
Gully Wall 
Hidden Wall 
Main Wall 
STD Wall 
Upper Tier 

Mont Rigaud  


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Elevation: 250'
Location: 45.46686, -74.33229 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,731
Administrators: Luc, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: rocknice2 on Sep 8, 2010
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Description 

Mont Rigaud is a high quality pink granite cliff which contains over 70 bolted sport routes. Climbs are between 5.2-5.13, with a healthy dose in the 5.6-5.12 range. Heights are typically 10-15 meters.
Sun comes around late morning to early afternoon and there are enough scattered trees which provide shade in the summer months.
Weekdays you'll find climbers coming after work for an evening workout, weekends on the other hand can get crowded on the easy to moderate routes. The base is clean of brush and there is plenty of room along the the entire length of the cliff to belay climbers, lay down your equipment and to gather and talk. Climbers bringing children and or dogs are not uncommon.
A central gully .

The most popular wall are:
Bob's Wall - a couple of excellent routes
Main Wall - High quality moderates
Gully Wall - provides easy top rope access for all the walls.
STD Wall - Steepest wall and some of the hardest climbs

Getting There 

Rigaud is a small town just off A40 [Trans -Canada] near the Quebec-Ontario border, 60km west of Montreal take exit #12 and 120km east of Ottawa take exit #9. Head into the center of town and follow the signs for Centre de ski Rigaud (about 3-4 km).
If coming from the south, route 325 goes right to the location.

The ski hill owner is kind enough to allow parking at the ski hill. Park at the smaller MTB parking lot just to the left of the main lot. The main lot closes in the late afternoon, so if you are planning to stay past 4:00 don't park here or you'll get locked in!. Parking is also allowed on the side of the road 300 meters past the ski area, just past the three way stop beside the farmers fields on Chemin du Petit Brűlé. Don't park at the farmer's gate but just past it.

Once at the ski area parking lot the cliff should be visible on the upper left side when looking up the ski hills. Take a foot path up the furthest left ski trail [L'Express]. When that trail splits take the left trail again [La Falaise]. Once this trail starts to cut right, a path through the woods should be visible on the left [look for a flat rock]. Keep hiking up and left, you are sure to hit the cliff somewhere. Trail in woods is only about 200m. The
entire walk from parking area to cliff face takes 10-15 minutes.
If you can't find the wooded trail or want to keep it simple, you can continue up the ski run until the cliff becomes visible through the trees on your left, then just turn left to cliff.

The entire area is on PRIVATE PROPERTY! The land owners seem to tolerate climbers, hopefully this attitude will continue, please treat the area with respect !
Please... Most of the entire climbing area is covered with dry pine needles in the summer.
ABSOLUTELY NO FIRES OR CAMPING ALLOWED.

Area Order: left to right 

Elephant Cave
Hidden Wall
Upper Tier
Bob's Wall
Main Wall
Gully Wall
STD Wall

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.9 miles from here

79 Total Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',25],['1 Star',10],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',4],['5.8',12],['5.9',8],['5.10',20],['5.11',14],['5.12',7],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mont Rigaud:
Shish Kebob    5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR   Bob's Wall
Bunny Hop   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, TR   Gully Wall
Sponge Bob   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   Bob's Wall
The Dihedral    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13     Trad, TR   Main Wall
Stigmata   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR   Main Wall
This Bob's For You   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 50'   Bob's Wall
40 foot Smurf   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Main Wall
Smeg Head   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR   STD Wall
The Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR   Main Wall
Sidewinder   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport   Main Wall
Out of Tolerance   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   Upper Tier
G-Spot   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Mont Rigaud

Featured Route For Mont Rigaud
Cluster of 4 tough routes, far left is easiest at 10.b, right side 5.12.

Pecker Tracks 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  North America : Canada : ... : STD Wall
Up big holds in a left facing corner to a powerful finish...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mont Rigaud Slideshow Add Photo
Top rope wall, three routes are between the  climber and the rope 5.2 - 5.3. Left and up of the climber in the shaded area is a 5.8 short dihedral climb.
Top rope wall, three routes are between the climb...
the wall
the wall
Trail to cliff face is 75 meters to the left of here. If in doubt you can follow the ski run uphill untill the cliff becomes visible on your left, and then cut in on numerous small trails. Blue garbage has been removed in early fall,
BETA PHOTO: Trail to cliff face is 75 meters to the left of he...
No routes in here yet, some potential
No routes in here yet, some potential
Rigaud .... Climbers park left side inside inline with the chairlift area, note big front gate that gets closed at 4:00. Trail up to cliff is small trail inside far left ski hill.
Rigaud .... Climbers park left side inside inline ...
Parking area at base of Rigaud, cliff face is up on the left, follow the hiking trail in the far left ski run. The trail uphill is also used by hikers and dog walkers.
Parking area at base of Rigaud, cliff face is up o...
Closer look of wall at Raspberry route, between the 2 dark streaks. Note lack of protection potential.
Closer look of wall at Raspberry route, between th...
View from top of Bonnie Wall looking down at the ski lodge in the parking area.
View from top of Bonnie Wall looking down at the s...
STD wall ...., short routes above ledge.
STD wall ...., short routes above ledge.
Unclimbed section on left
Unclimbed section on left
At Upper Gully/ Bonnies wall looking out towards ski hill.
At Upper Gully/ Bonnies wall looking out towards s...
Rigaud Topo
BETA PHOTO: Rigaud Topo

Comments on Mont Rigaud Add Comment
Show which comments
By thomasg
Jun 7, 2012
Why is everything rated R or PG13 at this sport crag? Are the bolts really that spaced?
By Ian Dibbs
Jun 22, 2012
Some of the routes have bolt spacing that could result in a nasty fall ... especially when clipping or the first bolt starts high. Thought I would rate safety on the conservative side.
By Ian Dibbs
Sep 9, 2012
Just let me know the correct route names and I'll be happy to change them. I got the names from rockclimbng.com.